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environment

With sustained efforts, Jodhpur’s Rao Jodha Desert Park is now lush green

Manu Moudgil
6th Mar 2017
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Rao Jodha Desert Park in Jodhpur is known for its varied flora. Its resilience and beauty make a walk in this park truly enjoyable.

Rain has just abated but the clouds are threatening to burst again. “Not a good time to visit, what with reducing light and imminent showers,” I tell myself. “Don’t worry, it would be a light drizzle, if at all,” the person at the ticket counter assures. My guide, Sachin, a young, stout man with a winning smile, arrives from a tea break armed with binoculars and a slim guide book. “Monsoon is a very good season to visit this place. You will see lots of greenery,” he promises.

The desert park in its full glory during monsoon.

I was at Rao Jodha Desert Park, a rocky spread of over 70 hectares in Jodhpur with 120 native species of shrubs, herbs, trees, and climbers. After having done the usual routine of gazing down from high terraces of Mehrangarh fort, relishing miniature Rajput paintings and devouring mirchi vadas with kachoris, I was ready to gain some insights about the plant life that soldiers on despite the harsh sun overhead and the sand below.

We come across an exhibit of various rocks and soils announcing the diverse habitats within the desert – pink Jodhpur sandstone, volcanic rhyolite stone, yellow stone from Jaisalmer, the famous Habur fossil stone, saline soil of the Luni riverbed, and sand from near the Indo-Pak border. 

We walk on the old aqueduct which channelises rainwater to Ranisar, a pond near the fort wall. Heaven-bound Rubberwell drapes the left wall. Introduced in India from Madagascar during the World War I to produce aircraft tyres, the tree was abandoned due to high processing cost.

It was in 2005 that the Mehrangarh Museum Trust decided to develop the 70-hectare rocky wasteland around the fort and roped in filmmaker-turned-botanist Pradip Krishen. The task was enormous, requiring extensive travel in different seasons to collect various desert species, calibrating “the right” soil mixes, and enduring successive failures of certain plants.

But the biggest challenge was to deal with Prosopis juliflora, a non-native invasive species which had covered the land. The shrub, called Vilayati babul or Baavlia (the mad one) in Hindi, proliferates at the cost of other species as its toxic secretion in the root zone does not let anything else grow. It’s difficult to manage Baavlia as it resprouts unless removed from the root. From traditional methods like smearing cow dung on stumps to modern arsenal like dynamites did not help. Then came a team of traditional rock miners, locally called Khandwalias, who pulled out Baavlia with their root zones, one by one, leaving no chance for it to regrow. Baavlia left the ground with a parting gift: the ideal locations within the rocks where new plants could grow. Soil mixes were put in these cavities and seeds planted. The greens grew on their own responding to the rain and the sun over a period of time. But many were also lost, as is the natural process.

The old aqueduct that is now part of the nature trail.

Today, the expanse, which has four nature trails, hosts around 120 species of trees, shrubs, herbs, and grasses, besides an equally rich animal, bug, and avian life.

Safed vajradanti (Barleria Prionitis) is famous for treating oral disorders like gingivitis, dental caries and is commonly used in ayurvedic mouthwashes, creams, and pastes. Its white flowers look like candles during the day but bloom in the dark.

Kheer Kheemp (Sarcostemma acidum) is also called Rambling Milkweed because of its sprawl and milky latex in the stems. As a typical desert plant, it is leafless and cuts down on water loss (evapotranspiration). Thus, the task of food production or photosynthesis is left to the green stems. It grows on rocky hillsides and outcrops. Its colloquial names include Khursani tanto and Art thhor.

Ghatbor (Fleuggia leucopyrus) is a large shrub that flourishes near water but also adapts well to dry, rocky surfaces. Separate plants host male and female flowers and produce edible white, spherical fruits called makhane (not to be confused with fox nut). 

The mascot of Thar desert, Thhor (Euphorbia Caducifolia) is a muti-stemmed plant and is often confused with cactus. “Cactus is mainly a Central American import. Though Thhor also stores moisture in its stems for hard times like cactus, it grows leaves as well, even if for a short time in summer. When cut, it spouts latex while cactus gives out a transparent jelly,” informs Sachin. Since thorns are at the top, this succulent plant also offers shade and protection to other desert flora from heat and grazing animals. Many small creatures like rodents and lizards also find an ideal home at its base. The Rao Jodha Park has adopted Thhor as its insignia for its many roles and also for its resolute. “This was the only plant which was found to be surviving even in the company of Prosopis julifora,” says Sachin.

Tephrosia purpurea is also called Biyani (married) as reference to the ease with which it proliferates. It is commonly found in wastelands and can be a good green manure for growing vegetables. The dried plant is used in ayurveda to treat various diseases including bronchitis, bilious febrile attacks, and obstructions of the liver, spleen, and kidneys. It is also recommended as a blood purifier, in the treatment of boils and pimples. It is found to be poisonous to fish, but not to mammals.

A peahen on the boundary wall of Rao Jodha Desert Park.

A small tree, Kumatia (Acacia senegal) is known for flourishing in the desert. It is well known for the seeds which are used as an ingredient in the famous Ker Sangri vegetable preparation. It is also a good source for Arabic gum used in processed food and as a laminate for paintings. Kumatia hosts sets of three thorns. “Two outer thorns are slightly curved while the middle one is like a hook. It is said that if you are not caught while going in, you will be caught while retracting,” informs Sachin. 

Gangeti (Grewia tenax), also called White Cross Berry, is a shrub with white flowers and orange berries which grows well in the desert, but infestation of Prosopis juliflora pushed it out. The fruits are edible. Return of the diversity in plants has also brought back the animals and avian species to the land.

Disclaimer: This article, authored by Manu Moudgil, was first published in India Water Portal.

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Authors
Manu Moudgil
Manu Moudgil is the founder editor of GoI Monitor, a web magazine managed by a group of activists, journalists and web developers. He also writes for India Water Portal, a website that shares knowledge and builds communities around water and related issues in India.

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