Designer Tarun Tahiliani’s bold bet on accessible menswear with Tasva

On a crisp January evening, the amphitheater at UB City, India’s first luxury mall in Bengaluru, glistened and glowed. Tall white columns were draped in white silk and adorned with flowers. The staircase, lined with white cushions and pillar candles, ascended to the main stage.

Dhols rolled, and the shaadi music was turned on, all eyes towards the stage—the Baaraat (groom’s procession) was here!

After its debut at Delhi’s Travancore Palace, featuring actor Ranbir Kapoor as the showstopper, celebrated couturier Tarun Tahiliani presented the wedding collection Baaraat by Indian menswear brand Tasva in Bengaluru. Tasva is a joint venture between Tahiliani and Aditya Birla Fashion Retail Ltd (ABFRL). 

But why choose Bengaluru, a city that mostly houses techies and corporates who typically sport black t-shirts, jeans, and blazers? 

“Its clientele is ideal for us—they appreciate beautifully crafted clothing, value efficiency and want polished wear…Many men prefer to complete their shopping in 45 minutes or less, and we cater to that need,” says Tahiliani, in an exclusive conversation with YS Life at Tasva’s newest store in the posh 100ft Road in Indiranagar. 

The business of fashion

In December 2021, ABFRL launched Tasva in the ghats of Benaras, in collaboration with Tahiliani. 

Interestingly, the collaboration between ABFR and Tahiliani turned out to be more strategic than it initially appeared. Back then, as a part of this deal, ABFRL acquired 33% stake in the Luxury Couture business of Tahiliani. According to a release by the Aditya Birla Group, ABFRL’s stake was 80% in Tasva, with Tahiliani retaining the remaining 20%. 

Last year, in July, ABFRL acquired a majority stake (51%) in Goodview Fashion Private Limited, the manufacturer and ethnic couture brand ‘Tarun Tahiliani’. However, some reigns remain in the designer’s hands. 

“We have a super healthy work relationship…They are very respectable to what I bring to the table, and I am doubly grateful and respectful about what they bring in as a large organisation—professionalism, and a culture of finesse…If I need business and if a particular colour is selling very well, I have to find a way of doing it for them. But no one is pushing stuff that I absolutely hate,” he says. 

Tahiliani works with a design team on the brief and range plan provided by ABFRL for each collection, but the design aspect remains under his control. “They don’t force me to put anything that I don’t like,” Tahiliani adds, “That’s why there are no bow ties!” he whispers. 

During the launch, Tasva announced plans to open over 250 stores across India within the next five years. More than four years post its launch, the brand has expanded to over 65 stores across 17 states across the country. Bengaluru now has the second highest number of stores (10), following Delhi-NCR. 

“I always wondered why in Manhattan, there’s a Chanel Uptown, one in Midtown, a big one in Soho…and then I realised oh these are all different catchment areas…Because Bengaluru has responded well, we have opened so many stores. And all cities, with such horrendous traffic, mean multiple locations everywhere so that you don’t have to keep travelling back and forth everywhere,” Tahiliani explains. 

Having said that, the designer is aware that not every city might respond so well to the brand. “Some small towns in India want much more loud (clothes)...they are still in their Jodha Akbar-kind of mindset,” he adds, emphasising that Tasva and its collections, while staying rooted in tradition, will cater to the modern groom who prefers muted colours and precise fits. 

In line with this, apparels in ivory and gold make up 50% of Tasva’s sales. “For many men, wedding attire can feel like a costume, so we focus on ensuring they look and feel authentic and comfortable in what they wear.” 

A drape’s story

Tahiliani has been a part of the Indian fashion industry for nearly 40 years, ever since it was known as the ‘textile’ industry, with fashion being a concept of the West. Four decades later, if one thing that remains synonymous with his designs is his unique drapes. 

“If three girls walked in wearing the same Prada dress, it is a crisis. But if three girls walk in the same saree, it is different,” Tahiliani explains. 

Additionally, he emphasises how Indian fabrics are not meant to be stitched—from simple khadis, to jamdanis and brocades, “Draping has been central to our identity…Our fabrics’ beauty lie in the way they are draped…And it is practical, as drapes trap air and keep the body cool.”

Recently, Tahiliani was at the Mahakumbh to study the sadhus’ drape, “It was mind boggling because it’s so unconscious!” 

At Tasva too, he has integrated the draping subtly. While embroidery is a significant focus, the brand incorporates semi-draped elements in kurtas, shawls, scarves and garments designed with built-in drapes to create the illusion of carrying a drape. 

“This approach helps younger generations, who may not be as comfortable with traditional draping, to experience its charm in a modern and accessible way,” he explains. 

A conscious shift 

With a clientele that includes notable personalities like Priyanka Chopra, Madhuri Dixit Nene, Lady Gaga, Arianna Huffington, Oprah Winfrey, Victoria Bekham, Paris Hilton, KL Rahul, and more recently, Kim Kardashian, Tahiliani’s couture brand, Tasva, seem to cater to a broader audience. 

“Making designs more accessible opens up opportunities to cater to a broader audience, while still maintaining quality and craftsmanship. While exclusivity is one aspect of luxury, there’s no reason why it should remain the only focus. Collaborations like Tasva help fullfill the needs of different segments of customers across the spectrum,” says Tahiliani. 

Besides Tasva, Tahiliani has also previously collaborated with Titan Company’s jewellery brand Tanishq, and luxury carpet store Obeetee. However, “Our brand associations are still relatively small,” he clarifies. These partnerships, Tahiliani believes, allows him to bring his design philosophy to a new audience, and he plans to explore more such collaborations in the future. 

With close to 40 years of design experience behind him, what’s next, we ask? 

“I hope to continue working and creating until I am 85!” exclaims Tahiliani, now in his sixties, still brimming with passion and a hunger for more.