Farrukhabad’s Zari–Zardozi: Hand Embroidery Sustained by Skilled Karigars and ODOP Support
Farrukhabad’s zari–zardozi industry thrives through the work of specialised artisans who create detailed hand embroidery on lehengas, sarees and dresses. Supported by the ODOP programme, the district’s craft tradition is reaching wider trade networks.
In Uttar Pradesh’s Farrukhabad district, zari–zardozi hand embroidery continues to shape a craft economy centred on detailed handwork and occasion wear garments. Known for its intricate use of metallic threads, the craft is commonly applied on lehengas, sarees, suits and dresses that move from small karkhanas to larger showrooms and wedding markets across India and abroad.
The embroidery work is carried out on addas, wooden frames on which fabric is stretched tightly so artisans can execute precise hand stitching. Materials such as kora, dabka, nakshi, silk threads and beads are used to build layered patterns that create the raised textures typical of zari–zardozi embroidery. The value of each piece is shaped by the time and precision invested in the handwork, with some designs taking weeks or even months to complete.
The production process begins with the preparation of a design, which is transferred onto the fabric through a marking process. Small holes are made using a pinning technique, after which a paste mixture is applied to stabilise the base. Once the cloth dries, it is mounted on the adda and artisans begin the embroidery work, building the pattern thread by thread until the surface design is completed.
In Farrukhabad, the craft functions through a specialised chain of roles. Designers prepare patterns, marking artists transfer them onto the fabric, embroidery artisans execute the handwork, and finishing units prepare garments for retail. This layered production system allows complex designs to be completed while maintaining the neat finishing for which the district’s zari–zardozi work is known.
Artisan Shadab Khan, who has been engaged in the craft for nearly two decades, says he first learned the work by observing members of his family, particularly his maternal uncle. Over time he built experience in embroidery techniques and today works with a group of karigars who carry out zari–zardozi work for garments supplied to traders and showrooms.
According to him, the craft chain in Farrukhabad is closely connected to larger trade networks. Garments produced in the district often reach bigger markets through trading hubs such as Delhi, from where orders also move to international destinations. He recalls that one heavily embroidered dress produced through his unit took nearly three months to complete, with the finished garment valued at around ₹2.5 lakh, reflecting the labour and detailing involved in the craft.
Under the One District One Product (ODOP) Programme, zari–zardozi has been recognised as the notified product of Farrukhabad. Through initiatives such as skill training, financial assistance, toolkit distribution and participation in exhibitions and fairs, ODOP has helped artisans and small units strengthen their market visibility and connect with broader trade platforms.
With the continued efforts of local karigars and the institutional support provided under the ODOP framework, Farrukhabad’s zari–zardozi embroidery continues to sustain a long-standing craft tradition while expanding its reach into wider markets.