Chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi’s take on Awadhi cuisine beyond the classics

Kakori kebab, kareli ki nihari (a rich, spiced curry that once graced the royal table) and lahsun ki kheer (garlic pudding)–it’s rare to come across these dishes in a culinary festival dedicated to Awadhi cuisine. But Chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi, son of the late Imtiaz Qureshi, was clear about offering diners a taste of the cuisine beyond the classics at the ‘Jashn-e-Lucknow’ at JW Marriott Hotel New Delhi Aerocity.

“It's important to understand that Lucknawi cuisine isn't confined to biryani and gosht ka salan. If you want a cuisine to evolve, you must have the gumption to create and work hard. There are very few people who have that fire in their belly today,” he tells YS Life.

In the last two decades or so that he spent with his father, Chef Ishtiyaque experimented as much as he could. During the pandemic, he recalls inventing a dish called Murgori. “It was a take on the kakori kebab but with chicken. My father was 93 and still wanted to eat non-vegetarian food. I made him eat this dish for five years without him realising it wasn't red meat,” he adds.

Another dish he is proud of is lahsun ki kheer. Many have mistaken its primary ingredient to be kathal (jackfruit) or even lauki (bottle gourd) but everyone is always surprised when they find out what went into it. “I also served kali gajar halwa (a dessert made with black carrots), which is generally not promoted beyond the winter drink, kanji,” shares Ishtiyaque.

In a freewheeling chat, Chef Ishtiyaque tells us more about his attempts to evolve Awadhi cuisine while carrying forward the legacy that his father left behind.

Hands-on training

Chef Ishtiyaque’s foray in the hospitality industry began with a stint at ITC Maurya, A Luxury Collection Hotel, New Delhi, where his father established the legendary restaurants, Dum Pukht and Bukhara.

“My summer training in the hotel started when I was in Class 6 and it carried on until I was in Class 12. I worked in different departments, where I learnt everything from making roomali roti to the working of the butchery,” he recalls.

Since Chef Ishtiyaque belonged to a large family where contributing financially was crucial, he had to juggle his academics and work. “While I was interested in science, I gave it up and enrolled in commerce at an evening college in Delhi. I would be in ITC Maurya from 8-5 pm and then attend college later in the evening,” he shares.

Shortly after, he worked in Saudi Arabia for three years. Upon his return, Chef Ishtiyaque launched Dum Pukht in Searock Hotel Mumbai and later in ITC Windsor, A Luxury Collection Hotel, Bengaluru.

But something else caught his attention, pushing him to make a switch to the frozen foods industry. “It was a turning point in my career. I learnt everything about consistency from that industry. During that time, learning about calorific value and other aspects was being ahead of the curve,” he says.

Even when he made a comeback in the hospitality industry, he was insistent on not being confined to a hotel or organisation.

“That's how I have always been. When you restrict yourself as a chef in a hotel, you are bound by a menu. I always create and try to evolve the cuisine,” highlights Chef Ishtiyaque, adding that the encouragement of his parents always pushed him to go beyond convention.

Honouring his roots

As the founder of the two decade-old Kakori House (that operates under the brand Qureshi’s Dum Pukht dedicated to his father) which provides consultancy services, develops brands, manages restaurants, outdoor catering and also sells frozen marinated kebabs and spice mixes, Chef Ishtiyaque has been trying to honour the roots of his legacy.

However, he's clear that certain aspects must be broken away from. “There's more to Lucknawi cuisine than just korma, nihari, salan or haleem. There's a tradition that you get these during Ramzan or something like khichra is available during Shab-e-Barat or Muharram. I think these boundaries have been made because no one wants the cuisine to progress,” he points out.

The chef has brought it to an à la carte menu in his restaurant Aafreen in The Westin Pune. “It's important to go beyond the limited cuisine that people are used to having,” he adds.

It isn't that he doesn't appreciate the classics. In fact, melt-in-the-mouth galawati kebabs, dum gosht biryani and zafrani malai phirni almost always feature on the menu.

For him, the joy lies in interpreting a recipe and adding his personal touch but without tampering the sanctity of the cuisine. “For instance, you can't have a shahi tukda and add truffles to it. It's superficial. Even if you want to engage in fusion, look towards Hindustani cuisine. There's a vast culinary heritage we are sitting on,” he adds.

On the last day of the pop up at JW Marriott Hotel New Delhi Aerocity, he whipped up anjeer (fig) ki kheer using fresh figs instead of the dry varieties that are often used. “I also made nimona ke kebab using matar or peas and mint. It's all about craftsmanship and how you use your raw materials. That's all that matters.”