Chef Vardaan Marwah on why setting up FARRO in Pune was risky but rewarding

In recent years, Pune has emerged as one of the hottest destinations for food and beverage. With bars like Cobbler & Crew and Elephant and Co. getting international recognition, and experimental concepts like Ground Up with a full-fledged fermentary getting a thumbs up , the city has come a long way from its staple café culture. 

But these outlets continue to be a handful, says Vardaan Marwah, Chef-Partner at the recently-opened Farro in Koregaon Park, one of the city’s most upscale areas. His new restaurant is dedicated to the ancient grain of farro, commonly referred to as khapli wheat in Maharashtra. 

Previously, Marwah has worked at two-Michelin-starred Gaggan in Bangkok, Rooh in Delhi and alongside Chef Suvir Saran as Executive Chef at The House of Celeste in Gurugram. 

“I wasn’t sure if I wanted to open a restaurant like this in Pune. But I also knew there was a lack of dining spaces here. Most places have a shack kind of atmosphere, a very laid-back culture,” says the 30-year-old who has partnered with Michelin-starred chef Suvir Saran and restaurateur Aman Talreja to form Pune-based Sip and Savour Co–which has popular establishments like Murphies–Bistro & Bar, QORA–Cocktail Bar & Kitchen, Oi Brewhouse and now Farro under its belt.  

“For fine dining, the city’s residents generally go to Mumbai to have good food or dine in five-star hotels,” points out Marwah. 

The 40-dish menu at Farro honours the grain that was once the mainstay of the Indus Valley Civilisation, as well as the Mediterranean region. Marwah has carefully incorporated those flavours, albeit with a touch of nostalgia. 

The dishes have been segregated into three sections–Einkorn (small), Emmer (medium), and Spelt (large)–based on the size of the grain. While these names may sound unfamiliar, Marwah has ensured guests enjoy familiar flavours but with a twist. 

For instance, you will find a jalebi on the menu but with parmesan, paired with a saffron aioli. “The jalebi, also known as zulbi, has its roots in Persia. I started my career as a pastry chef so I enjoy doing things that look like dessert but aren't. We usually find jalebi and rabri as a combination. Here, I have created a parmesan jalebi with lots of spices and herbs,” he says. 

Marwah adds, “Since it’s my first restaurant as a chef partner, I wanted to include dishes I grew up eating, my nani and dadi’s recipes, what I learnt from Suvir, Sujan Sarkar, or Gaggan Anand while working with them. It’s all about my journey as a chef along with a lot of nostalgia.”

A twist on the classics 

The meal kicked off with the Thirty Layer Truffle Latke, accompanied with an aioli. Inspired by cheese pancakes in Italy called latka, this dish may look simple, but the technique takes centre stage. Parmesan cheese is added to the grated potatoes, following which it is cooked on a girdle. 

“It has 30 layers of potato and the dish takes almost two days to prepare from start to finish. It opens up like a book in your mouth,” says Marwah. 

There’s also the Lamb Kefta that will remind you of seekh kebab. It’s interesting to see the incorporation of Indian elements alongside global techniques. “We have cooked this dish in a clay oven. Besides, instead of serving it with a regular tahina, we make the sauce with peanuts and sesame. And then I add a tadka just like how Hyderabadis do with salan; there's lots of khada masala in this one,” shares Marwah. 

It's a similar case with Pashtun Kebab that is close to the original, having been presented like the chapli kebab. The only difference in Marwah’s version is the use of chicken instead of meat. It has been paired with homemade pickle and Afghani burani raita that has been turned into a chutney. 

Another dish that makes an impression is the Buff Manti, a lamb or beef dumpling popular in Turkey and Armenia. Here, Chef Marwah chargrills it just like the Bihari delicacy, litti chokha. 

“Farro is not a serious restaurant. We aren’t trying to over-intellectualise anything. We want people to experience the chef’s ideology of cocktails and food in a fun manner,” adds Marwah. 

An ode to civilisations

Farro’s cocktail programme, titled XI, is inspired from ancient civilisations like Harappan, Chinese, Roman, and Egyptian, among others. Each of the 11 libations are steeped in legend or a folk tale, adding to the enriching experience. 

There’s Empress of the Red Pavillion with hibiscus tequila reposado, strawberry, black currant, goji berry, thyme, and tonic. It is believed that an empress who hosted gatherings in her garden often served drinks made of hibiscus and berries. This potion was said to impart balance, warmth, and serenity. 

Another cocktail, Saturn’s Vine, with its roots in the Roman Empire, was inspired from their feasts. Featuring tequila, basil, cherry tomatoes, orgeat and a red wine float, it is an ode to tomatoes, “the fruit of the land” and basil, “the royal herb”.

Closer home, the drink Sone ki Chidiya captures the flavours of the Indian subcontinent, with kokum, coconut, and mango coming together to create a refreshing drink. 

Cracking a challenging market 

Farro is a little over a month old, but Chef Marwah is in no hurry to top the charts. He admits that Pune is a challenging market to crack. Currently, the restaurant offers two dinner services (except on Monday) but it will take some time to initiate and educate people on a novel concept like this. 

“We may not be packed to the brim at the moment but there’s curiosity among people to know what Farro is all about. Whoever has come here and has tried our food is happy,” he concludes. 

Timings: 

Operational days: Tuesday – Sunday (Monday Closed)

1st seating – 7PM–9:15PM   

2nd seating – 9:30PM–midnight

Cost for two: Rs 3,000++ (without alcohol)