Postcards from Paris: Exploring the city, one neighbourhood at a time

Paris has been on my mind ever since I watched Before Sunset—the 2004 movie, part of a romance trilogy starring Ethan Hawk and Julie Delpy. 

The City of Love is as much a part of the movie as Jesse (played by Hawk) and Celine (Delpy) are, as they rekindle their romance here after nearly a decade. The Seine provides the perfect backdrop for their intense exchange, mulling over all the what-ifs and could-have-beens. 

The movie reinforced my love for a city I had only read about in the classics. As TS Eliot says, Paris is a “strong stimulant”, and I had to experience it at least once in my lifetime! 

Before I embarked upon this little jaunt, I skimmed through this wonderful recommendation by a colleague—In Paris: 20 Women on Life in the City of Light—by model and fashion designer Jeanne Damas and journalist Lauren Bastide. 

Interspersed with personal accounts, interviews, and curiosity-inducing photographs, the book chronicles the lives of 20 women living in the city from diverse walks of life and gives a peek into the quintessential Parisian life. 

Armed with enough anecdotes and nuggets from the book, I undertook the trip to the hub of fashion, culture, food, and more. Although it was a tad different from the dreamy picture I had in mind, Paris did not disappoint. 

The city is a bundle of contrasts and contradictions. Eloquent art in galleries juxtaposes with street art that’s equally fascinating. It is also the place where fine dining co-exists with roadside kiosks that dish out fresh crepes and cinnamon churros. 

Paris is busy all right, but it also moves at its own pace—here’s where people surge with the tide and also slip out stealthily to catch a moment’s breath. 

There is always something to do in the city… with so many places to wander around, shops and shows to check out, and pretty cafés at every corner where one can sip rosé at leisure or grab a coffee on the go. You can choose to do some of these, all of these, or none at all. 

There is a lot of hustle and bustle—with people constantly darting in and out of metros, tourist spots teeming with foreigners and locals, and vehicles crisscrossing all over town. Yet, in the midst of all this, you can find pockets of quiet. 

And by that I mean the many benches from where you can watch the city go by or ponder in silence… parks where you can sprawl on the lawn and spread a picnic basket… and trees under which you can read a book while nibbling on a croissant. 

However, I must confess, I did very little reading in Paris, though a copy of Ponniyin Selvan was perched on my lap all the time. 

I found people watching far more engaging—be it children showing off stunts in bicycles of all kinds, sizes, and colours around Place de la Bastille, tourists taking endless selfies in front of Arc de Triomphe (mindless of the frowning locals), or locals marching briskly to the nearest metro station to catch their ride back home. 

And, of course, when in Paris, how could I forget the fashion on the street! 

While it’s true that Parisians turn up well, with edgy clothes that flatter their bodies, they also prioritise comfort as many of them walk and use public transportation in their daily commute. 

Unlike what Emily in Paris shows you, Parisian fashion isn’t pretentious or outlandish. It’s classic and sensible—with clean lines, neutral tones, and elegant silhouettes.

So, it’s not uncommon to see people in comfortable ballet flats or sneakers, paired with smart trousers and classy blouses. You will also find stylish backpacks and totes vying with chic handbags and crossbody bags. 

As the spring sun sets around 10 pm, I had all the time in the world to soak into the city, with the eager eyes and ears of an outsider pretending to be a ‘Parisian’ for a week.  

If your idea of experiencing a new place consists of endless cups of steaming coffee/hot chocolate, lazy afternoons, long lunches, and languid walks in the park, then Paris is the place for you! And this is exactly what I did, after quickly crossing the customary Eiffel and Louvre off my list. 

I must admit, I’d bookmarked several places on Instagram, but they went for a toss the minute I landed. For Paris on the Gram is a maze, and I wasn’t ready to find my way through it. Instead, I decided to let serendipity dictate where I went and what I did. 

Flitting from one neighbourhood to another, with no agenda or itinerary, I explored the city in an impromptu and slightly haphazard manner. 

Here are my top picks from the neighbourhoods I wandered around that represent a good mix of leisure, fun, food, art and culture.  

Montmartre

Montmartre is a charming neighbourhood perched on a hill in the 18th arrondissement of Paris. It gives off countryside vibes and a slightly Bohemian and artistic appeal with cobbled pathways, little gardens, stunning basilicas, and steps that take you up and down the streets. 

And, while in Montmartre, it’s hard to miss the iconic Moulin Rouge building—with its trademark red windmill—where entertainment comes to life!

Rue Crémieux

Amid the uniform beige palette of Paris, Rue Crémieux is a colourful treat in the 12th arrondissement—known for its quaint houses, lively potted plants, and grumpy cats staking claim to different spots on the street. 

The street has, of late, seen an influx of Instagrammers, much to the ire of its residents. So, if you happen to swing by this place, be mindful of their privacy. 

The story behind Rue Crémieux is quite contrary to its cheery disposition—the street was named after Adolphe Crémieux, a French lawyer and politician, who fought for the rights of Algerian Jews living in France. 

Saint Germain

Start exploring this neighbourhood from the sprawling Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Gardens), once a royal residence. 

Situated at the border of Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Latin Quarter, Luxembourg Gardens is one of Paris’ most loved gardens, spread over 60 acres. 

Replete with ponds, fountains, tree-lined promenades, and cafés, it is the perfect place to people-watch, read, grab a snack, and even catch a local group busking. You can also admire the statues around the garden or sail toy boats with country flags in a pond. 

When you are done with the gardens, walk around the boulevards of St Germain—once home to some of the 19th century’s greatest writers, intellectuals, and artists—now housing upscale boutiques and fine-dine restaurants. 

Latin Quarter

If you are in the mood for some aimless strolling along the Seine, the Latin Quarter would serve you well. 

Those with an eye for all things old and artsy will find this place particularly intriguing as it teems with kiosks selling various street art, knick-knacks, and second-hand books, mainly in French. 

Bibliophiles cannot miss the legendary Shakespeare and Co, an English-language bookshop founded in 1951 by American George Whitman, on the banks of the Seine across from the Notre Dame Cathedral, now being restored after a devastating fire. 

The bookstore was opened in honour of the original Shakespeare and Company started in 1919 by Sylvia Beach, which attracted celebrated writers such as Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, and Scott Fitzgerald. 

Visitors are let inside in a trickle as the bookstore is housed in an old building. So, you may have to queue up to get in, but it’s worth the wait, as the place is a whimsical wonderland with books tucked in every nook and cranny and literary quotes plastered on the walls, evoking an incredible sepia-tinted aura.

While here, do check out their tiny café that serves vegan apple pie and hot chocolate, among other bites and beverages. 

Here’s a Before Sunset movie trivia. This is the bookstore where Jesse does a reading of his book, inspired by the magical day he spent in Vienna with Celine. 

Bastille

The Place de la Bastille is a large pedestrian square where you can spend an idyllic evening lounging on a bench, reading, or taking in all the sights and sounds.

The Bastille prison stood here once upon a time before it was stormed by an angry mob—a defining moment in the history of the French Revolution. 

Next to the square is Opera Bastille, a modern opera house for classic theatre performances. This year's season features classics such as Romeo and Juliette and Don Giovanni. 

A walk around the opera house will take you to Coulée verte René-Dumont—a linear elevated park built atop an obsolete railway structure, which cuts across the city.

The view of the streets below is simply spectacular. 

Incidentally, Jesse and Celine—my favourite on-screen couple—amble through this picturesque green belt, catching up on each other’s lives. 

Beyond Paris

As I did not have much time to explore the rest of France, I did day trips to Versailles, home to the opulent Palace of Versailles, and Giverny, a village in the region of Normandy, which have a genteel charm of their own. 

This was all the time I had in Paris, but I hope to be back here someday, for I’ve left behind a piece of me in the sparkling city of lights, love, and laughter!  

Paris je t'aime! Till next time!