An adventure through the Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve

“I hope we spot Shambhu…”, our group of six set out with this ambition towards the Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve set in Maharashtra’s Chandrapur. Known as the ‘Gladiator of Gondwana’, this male tiger is the reigning king of the Dewada and Agarzari buffer zones of the park. 

Tigers, like Chhoti Madhu, Chota Matka, and Sonam, among others, are also the star inhabitants of this forest. 

Many say the Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve is one of the world's most prominent tiger destinations, with over 115 tigers considering it their home. It spreads over 1,700 square kms, including the core and buffer zones. 

With the possibility of tiger sighting much higher in Tadoba than in other parks, our chants of “Shambhu, Shambhu” grew louder as we entered the Agarzari gate for a morning safari. 

We were partly nervous with the rain playing spoilsport and drenching the jungle. It is believed that the animals refrain from showing up or crossing paths when it pours. 

Even then, it didn't dampen our spirits. 

A quote by American writer Ashlan Gorse Cousteau perfectly encapsulated the emotions we felt at that moment, “There is nothing like the thrill of walking through the jungle looking for a tiger and knowing they could be watching you already.”

Was Shambhu observing us from a distance? Was he ridiculing us for being ambitious? All kinds of thoughts played in our minds. 

There’s no logical explanation for the mania that takes over when one expects a big cat to magically appear before their eyes. 

But there's more to Tadoba-Andhari than just tigers. YS Life takes you through the entire journey and what it takes to prepare for this exhilarating ride. 

A peek into the wildlife 

The first few minutes in the Tadoba-Andhari forest were all about acclimatising to the environment. The next four hours of the safari were filled with action and adventure. 

As our driver navigated through the dense bamboo forest, looking with a fine eye to spot anything that moved, a naturalist seated in another gipsy remarked, “I saw a tiger in my dream, and it was at 8.30 am…”. There was a glint in our eyes as we latched onto his belief.  

Did we see tigers during our morning safari? Not even a single one. But the hunt for Shambhu and Chhoti Madhu was exhilarating as we crisscrossed through different tracks, soaking in myriad hues of the jungle that shapeshifted before our eyes. 

The pitter-patter of raindrops was the only sound in the forest, interrupting the eerie silence that was otherwise our constant companion. 

At one moment during our safari, we saw some movement in the bushes. That's when a herd of spotted deer or chital crossed our path. These beautiful creatures with antlers looked straight into our eyes and posed for a picture. 

We also came across a few monitor lizards slithering away in the slush. Sometimes, it's hard to track these species with their dominant green or tan colour that blends with the forest. 

As we fixated our eyes on its elongated head and neck, we saw one of the lizards sticking out its tongue akin to a snake. Scary but fascinating at the same time!

As we meandered further through the forest, we also sighted some birds that had distinct calls. One of them was the Indian pitta, with strong legs and a stout bill, also known as navrang since its plumage has nine colours! 

When in Tadoba, visitors are also likely to spot sloth bears, leopards, black leopards, and wild dogs. Other rare animals like honey badgers, porcupines, palm civet cats, and four-horned antelopes also live in the jungle. 

The beauty of the forest 

While there's charm in spotting any of the big cats or elusive species, one can't possibly deny the beauty of the forest, especially when it's freshly laundered in the monsoons. The jungle is seemingly more lush and green, enhancing its beauty. 

According to GS Rathore, Founder of Jungle Camps India, about 60% of Tadoba is bamboo forest, and the tree species usually flowers once every 35-40 years. This time around, we were fortunate since 90% of the bamboo in the park had flowered, and its branches created canopies that resembled tunnels at a distance. 

Tadoba-Andhari is also interspersed with several water bodies, making it nothing short of a picture postcard. Wildlife experts say it also makes for an ideal retreat for wildlife to cool down in the sweltering heat. 

The backwaters of the Irai Dam within Tadoba are a popular spot for those who enjoy birding. From ducks to herons, buzzards to eagles and other migratory birds can be flitting around. 

What else to keep in mind? 

How to reach: The closest airport is Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar International Airport in Nagpur, about three hours away from the Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve. The closest railway stations are Chandrapur (35 km away) and Wardha (118 km away). 

Safari season: Tadoba Tiger Reserve offers safaris throughout the year, except during the monsoon season (July to September) when the core forest is closed but the buffer zones remain open. 

The best time for tiger sightings is March to June in the summer. It's also a good time to experience safaris from October to February when the weather is pleasant. However, tiger sightings might be less frequent in the cold months.

What to remember: The reserve strictly prohibits taking any images from your mobile phones. Those with DSLRs can click away by paying a fee of Rs 250. 

Where to stay: For a stay that offers the rusticness of the forest while providing all creature comforts, head to the Tadoba Jungle Camp near the Moharli gate, which boasts 12 luxury safari cottages. Besides, the property also arranges experiences from picnics by the Irai Lake to wildlife safaris to stargazing and nature trails. 

So, when are you planning to head to Tadoba-Andhari for a wildlife safari?