Celebrity chef Vicky Ratnani is a globetrotter with a ‘Sindhi heart and soul’

At an early age, chef Vicky Ratnani was drawn to the smell and taste of food. His mother and aunts would cook well, which he believes got him “interested in eating well.”

While he was also inclined to cooking, there was no plan to be a chef. However, he enjoyed frequenting five-star hotels for elaborate meals and brunches—where he liked to “be fed and taken care of.” 

It is this love for hospitality and food that prompted him to pursue his passion at the Dadar Catering College (Institute of Hotel Management, Mumbai). 

But it wasn't all hunky-dory. Ratnani admits he was “disastrous” in the first year of culinary school. That's history now because the celebrity chef, who dons the hat of a TV host, food connoisseur, and entrepreneur, is known for his mastery in global cuisines. 

What makes him stand apart from the rest is his knack to pair ingredients. Even in his new restaurant, Omny Kitchen in Gurugram, he does a ‘Vicky twist’ on chaats, tacos, pakoras and even the Sindhi delicacy, sai bhaji that has dal, palak and other vegetables. 

Although most of his life was spent around foreign shores—working on ocean liners and cruise ships, and mingling with as many as 37 different nationalities—his heart lies in Sindhi food. 

Most people don't know Sindhi cuisine beyond Sindhi curry. But there's so much more that the community eats–from bhuggal chawar (rice with caramelised onions), aloo tuk (double fried potato) to dal pakwan (popular Sindhi breakfast). 

His attempts to make Sindhi food mainstream can be seen in Omny Kitchen’s menu. Currently, there's a small selection of dishes that he hopes to build on over time. Alongside, diners can enjoy cold plates, burgers, Roman-style pizzas, pastas, and small plates—a representation of a new India that seeks a balance in tradition and modernity. 

Popularising Sindhi cuisine 

Ratnani has been a chef since 1992 but there was a recent realisation that he had cooked everything but the food (Sindhi cuisine) he grew up on and enjoyed eating the most. “I think this thought came sometime during the Covid-19 lockdown. That's when I asked myself—what do I see myself doing in the next 10 years? It all started then but there's a long way to go,” he adds. 

There are home chefs and then some small delivery kitchens that serve Sindhi food but no one seems to have represented the cuisine on a mainstream menu. 

“Sindhi food hasn't been customised into a restaurant format. I believe it takes some experience and aptitude on how to package it. Even menu engineering and storytelling play an important role,” says Ratnani.  

It's also because a lot of dishes aren't inherently ‘pretty’ to look at. For instance, Ratnani draws attention to the sai bhaji and a Sindhi bread, koki that he's added to the list of offerings. “I call these dishes ugly delicious (laughs). These are only a few things that you see in the menu now, it's only a mukhda (teaser),” he points out. 

Ratnani’s vision is to have family recipes as well as research-backed dishes on the menu, covering food that is also eaten by the population in Pakistan. “I want to do something ambitious, which is both family and history-related. It's a personal project…at the end of the day, it's all about what I want to cook for the rest of my life,” he says. 

While it isn't a conclusive plan, Ratnani hints that a Sindhi breakfast or brunch menu is in the offing. “If it happens, there will be masala chai, two kinds of koki, boondi, dahi, sev and papad..all the quintessential Sindhi foods,” he shares. 

Something for everyone 

It's not just Sindhi food that's the USP of Omny Kitchen. The restaurant and bar, in The Boulevard, one of Gurugram’s newest F&B hotspots, promises to cater to all kinds of diners—be it young families, couples, children and even the elderly. 

The menu comprises options like the Caesar Salad on Fire with charred market leaves and The Bazaar salad, which changes with the availability of fresh produce daily. 

From the grill, there are dishes like the Gambas Al Ajillo (charcoal oven baked fresh tiger prawns, elephant garlic, Mathania chilli, infused olive oil) and the signature Filipino Chicken Adobo (charred baby bok choy, soy drunken onions) reimagined with a touch of smoke. 

To top it off, there’s ‘The Burger Project By Vicky Ratnani’ where he elevates the classic burger with innovative combinations—say the Jammu Tawi burger, featuring Jammu Kalari cheese. 

The cocktail programme has been curated by mixologist and founder of premier bar consulting company Bar Bundle, Varun Sudhakar, whose passion for combining flavours mirrors Chef Ratnani’s culinary philosophy.  

No wonder, the name of the restaurant is Omny, which is a shorthand for omnipresent—and those who enjoy all kinds of good food. “I have worked on these dishes and also reimagined them to make it relevant for the discerning audience. It has taken me a while to do this. In the process, it has changed the way I work. It has also made me more patient, nature and more open-minded,” shares Ratnani. 

Will something like this also expand elsewhere? “Omny might open in another avatar in another city. There are so many categories in the menu that I can create several buckets out of,” concludes Ratnani. 

Timings: Noon-midnight

Cost for two: Rs 3,000 + taxes