Traditional Indian ‘nashta’ gets a status lift at Goa’s Bawri

The lanes of Assagao in Goa have stood the test of time. Once a village so dense and green that it almost camouflaged its old houses that were inhabited by the Portuguese. Several years later, tourists have returned to Assagao for a culinary extravaganza. 

The century-old villas have now been converted into high-end restaurants and bars, each specialising in global and fusion cuisine. Amidst all the European and coastal nosh up and bar bites, restaurant Bawri boasts of traditional Indian delicacies. For every beefsteak and pork ribs, Bawri takes pride in Kakori Kebabs and Nihari. 

“Bawri is a love story between my adoration and passion for traditional Indian cooking and culinary innovation. With rooted techniques and bold flavours, it takes diners on a trip back in time,” Chef and Partner Amninder Sandhu tells YS Life. 

After making quite the noise with long queues of diners trying out their luck for a table during weekends, Bawri seems to have hit the sweet spot among North-Indian food-loving tourists. But breakfast in Goa is a different ball game altogether. 

Be it the locals or tourists, Goa is known for its traditional European breakfast spread, and the occasional Konkani belt’s puri-bhajis. More recently, there has been a rising demand in smoothie bowls and avo-toasts that can be attributed to the fitness enthusiasts. But heirloom recipes and traditional Indian food never made it to the top three breakfast preferences among the travellers in Goa. 

Sandhu wishes to change that. 

“A breakfast true to India was never celebrated in the state,” she says. But, “The takers for an Indian breakfast in Goa are the same as those that are up for an Indian meal here…Which is a huge segment. We saw that and realised it with our lunch and dinner operations, where we had to nearly double our seating capacity due to the increasing demand for Indian food.”

Inspired by the comforting breakfast from across Indian homes, the Bawri breakfast menu is a beautiful curation comprising South India’s warm Appam and Stew and Podi Idli; Delhi’s puffy Chole Bhature; Surat’s Keema Ghotala; to Punjab’s crispy Samosa and Parathas. 

Evening cocktails are replaced with thick Amritsari Lassi, freshly squeezed juices, and an option to choose from Masala Chai or Filter Coffee, which Sandhu promises, “Will awaken one’s soul.” 

Bawri’s dining experience is a delight for those who prefer to start their day slow. Seated next to a long koi pond on a traditional floor cushion and low table—that adds distinct characteristics to Bawri’s decor—an amalgamation of tropical charm with an earthy appeal; I got to enjoy my breakfast amidst the sound of nature. Diners can also choose to sit at the rattan and wood tables, or the stone table that features a narrow water outlet flowing through it. 

The 9,500 sq ft restaurant is canopied by ferns, palms, and frangipani; the ceiling above is made using bamboo and features Goan restaurants’ favourite decor element—macrame hangings. 

YS Life visited the restaurant on a Sunday, and despite being in the party capital of India, the restaurant was unusually occupied by diners at 9 AM. 

To start with, we were served with a freshly-made Egg Appam along with Veg Ishtew or stew. Loaded with peas, carrots, broccoli and curry leaves, the white gravy or stew paired well with the gooey sunny side-up that sits at the absolute centre of the appam—the ultimate comfort food from Kerala—The God’s Own Country, and as authentic as it can get. 

Next came the Keema Ghotala. Descending from the streets of Surat, the Anda Keema Ghotala is usually served with pav, but in Bawri, it gets a makeover and is served with Buttered Poi. The thick spicy brown gravy often makes it to the breakfast or brunch spread in Western India, and at Bawri, the look and texture of it matches with the original version. The keema or meat, however, was uncooked and was unable to live up to my expectations. 

Choley Kulchey or Bhature is the bestselling dish from the breakfast menu at Bawri, Sandhu tells me. “My Punjabi heritage combined with a recipe passed down in my family for many generations has culminated in this. Served with tandoor-cooked kulchas bursting at their seams with the filling, it’s the only way to start your day when you’re in Goa,” she says. 

After the hype, I couldn’t dare miss it.

For someone who got her mind blown by the bhature served in the streets of Delhi, the bar was set quite high. But like Sandhu said, it is the best-selling dish and you must be prepared to wait for it…the fluffy bhature takes its time, and to my surprise, is worth the wait. 

The two fried bread sit on a banana leaf, in a large plate, with a side of rich and dense choley or chickpea gravy, topped with lachha pyaaz, and a side of onion imli chutney. This is as close to Delhi as one can get, in Goa. 

The filter coffee lives up to its name as well, and Bawri makes sure its patrons get the darshini experience with the coffee being served on a steel glass and bowl—the authentic way. 

Overall, the traditional Indian nashta or breakfast gets a status lift at Bawri—both from the cost and presentation point of view. Although the menu features delicacies from North to South, the breakfast heroes of the West—Vada Pav, Missal Pav; and East—Luchi-torkari, and Kochuris; do not make it to Bawri’s breakfast menu.

Would I choose its Rs 530 Chole Bhature over Dilli’s cheaper version? Probably not. But because we are in Goa, and cravings don’t care about the time and place, Bawri’s breakfast is worth the try. 

“We go to great lengths to ensure that all the food is cooked in desi ghee derived from A2 quality milk, or in coconut oil, avocado oil, and olive oil. The benefits of seed-free oil cooking are plentiful, however it costs more than refined oil. We also use the finest quality ingredients from the region of their origin,” Sandhu explains the price-point. 

The star of the show, however, is the thick, nut-loaded Malai Lassi, which is worth waking up for on a Sunday, even during a Goan vacation. 

Cost for two: Rs 1,500 (approximately) 

Timing: 8 AM to 11 AM, all days except Tuesday