Behind the scenes of Avartana, one of Asia’s most celebrated restaurants

Among some of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants like Gaggan Anand, Bangkok; Odette, Singapore and Sézanne, Tokyo, is a name that has turned the spotlight on South Indian cuisine like never before–Avartana (pronounced Avartan). 

The flagship restaurant that began its journey in 2017 from ITC Grand Chola, Chennai has expanded its footprint over the years to other cities in India and even internationally. It is currently present in ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata; ITC Maratha, Mumbai;  ITC Ratnadipa, Colombo; and now ITC Maurya, New Delhi. 

There was palpable excitement among diners before the opening of its recent location in the national capital on October 3. While many have already tasted the restaurant’s avant-garde cuisine in other centres, others couldn't wait to sample the much-hyped menu. 

“I can't wait to visit the new outlet in Delhi. I've enjoyed the menu at Avartana in Chennai and Mumbai during my travels earlier. Honestly, I can't get enough of it. As someone with limited knowledge of south Indian food, this has been a revelation,” shares Sandhya Pratheek, an event management professional from Gurgaon. “Out of the five tasting menus on offer, I've already tried three.”

What makes Avartana so popular? 

“It's a one-of-a-kind restaurant offering south Indian cuisine in a progressive avatar. Diners can enjoy a unique experience with flavours crafted using authentic ingredients presented in a groundbreaking fashion,” says Nikhil Nagpal, executive chef at ITC Grand Chola, Chennai and brand custodian, Avartana. 

“We continue to strike a harmonious blend of well-researched traditional and progressive renditions, delivering a redefined dining experience,” Nagpal tells YS Life. 

Behind the scenes 

Rooted in a strong cultural narrative, the kitchens at Avartana, curate the mysticism and magic that the word personifies by exploring new frontiers of southern Indian gastronomy and delving into the past with modernistic expressions.

The restaurant, across all its outlets, serves vegetarian and non-vegetarian degustation menus that champion ingredients and techniques from a land that has been stereotyped for dishes like idli and dosa. “To maintain consistency and quality, even the most basic ingredients like pepper, cumin, jaggery and tamarind are flown in from Chennai,” explains Chef Nagpal. 

At Avartana, diners can pick between the seven-course Maya, nine-course Bela, 11-course Jiaa with dishes like lamb cheeks and quail, and the 13-course Anika or Tara that offers seafood options. Each of these have a mix of small bites, mains and dessert. 

“Every menu is distinct in flavour and presentation, offering the diner a unique experience every time they visit the restaurant. The distilled rasam is my favourite amongst the many other dishes on the menu. It's a flavour bomb which sets the tone for the meal to follow,” says Nagpal. 

What makes each of the outlets stand out is the consistency in its dishes. Chef Nagpal credits it to the rigorous training that happens at Avartana in Chennai, during which the entire team has to be mandatorily present.

“It's the entire experience that leaves a lasting impression. It begins from the time a guest books a table to when they visit and enjoy the cocktails and food. There's also a guided explanation of each dish on the table. Plus, there's much focus on presentation of food and then a lot of customisation,” says Chef Nagpal. 

A window into south India 

Having heard so much about Avartana, we decided to experience the concept first-hand in Delhi. Everything from the decor to the food menu and cocktails embodies the tradition-meets-modernity vibe. 

Upon entering the restaurant, it's hard to miss elements like geometric brass accents, banana-leaf inspired motifs or coconut-inspired lighting. Interestingly, each corner of the 54-cover Avartana (and 10-seater private dining space) offers privacy and exclusivity. 

After getting seated, an 11-course chef’s tasting menu, Kimaya, was specially curated for us. But before diving into the menu, some of the cocktails were calling for our attention. 

Between the Salem Picante with Salem chillies (well balanced with the flavours of guava and mango) or the Coorg Coffee Espresso Martini, a gin-based cocktail with a creamy texture–the Avishka cocktail menu offers a wealth of new tastes. 

Don't miss the Munnar Chai Punch, a vodka-based beverage infused with the full-bodied Munnar tea, khus, homemade bitters and spice tea soda. It's a well-balanced drink with a lingering aftertaste of tea in your palate. 

“From the spice markets of Chennai to the backwaters of Kerala, these beverages blend tradition with a contemporary twist,” shares Chef Nagpal. 

The Kimaya menu began with amuse bouche, which had the crispy chilli potato 2.0 paired with a pineapple and mint sphere (the flavour of which reminded us of pani puri) and bitter gourd with toasted potatoes and buttermilk mousse on top. 

Next in the lineup was bottle gourd fashioned into spaghetti, with the flavours of raw mango, coriander and mint taking centre stage. It was paired with plum chutney and a multiseed crisp made from pumpkin, cucumber, sunflower and flaxseed. 

A standout in Avartana’s menu is the incorporation of some  typically unpopular vegetables like lauki and karela , albeit in a creative fashion.

Some of the other highlights included stir fried chicken tossed in Guntur chilli served with buttermilk mousse and a delicate curry leaf tempura; steamed seabass with sticky rice on a bed of fermented gongura emulsion, garnished with fried gongura leaf. 

The spiced aubergine dish is a flavour bomb, with aubergine and sago wrapped in a roasted eggplant sheet with a Byadgi chilli and coconut emulsion along with puffed crisps and micrograins. The best way to eat, we were told, was to cut the eggplant sheet and mix everything else. The taste of charred eggplant and the spices was a match made in heaven!

Another favourite was the pepper flavoured lamb with sticky rice, steamed in a banana leaf. The star of the show was the okra yoghurt (for the crunch) served alongside. Who would have thought an accompaniment like this could elevate the dish? 

The desserts were innovative in taste and presentation. As Chef Nagpal says, “The showstopper is the fennel panna cotta. Combined aromatic fennel seeds centred cream with mango and ginger are set into an egg-shaped mould, served in a ‘nest’ made with caramelised angel hair. Break the egg and witness true artistry.”

The last word

What stands out about Avartana is that it doesn't belong to a coterie of restaurants that thrive on being gimmicky. While the presentation of its dishes is Instagrammable (special points to the serveware), there's more that lies within. The food is the hero and that's what makes it successful in every centre it is present in. 

And for all that it offers, the experience is pocket-friendly. The menus are priced between Rs 3,000 and Rs 5,500, excluding taxes, making it accessible for people to come by! 

Avartana is open from 7 to 11 pm for dinner every day.

(The copy was updated to correct a factual error.)