Chef Ana Roš on what makes Hiša Franko a 3-time Michelin Star winning restaurant

Slovenia was never uttered in the same breath as other global gastronomic destinations like France, the UK, or Japan. But the country in central Europe, known for its mountains and ski resorts, is now under the spotlight, thanks to celebrated Chef Ana Roš, chef and owner of three-time Michelin star-awarded restaurant Hiša Franko. Roš’s culinary creations, that are closely connected to the Slovenian terroir, have also earned her restaurant a recurring spot on the coveted World’s 50 Best list since 2017. 

A self-taught cook, Roš could never imagine pursuing anything associated with cuisine; instead, it was rather obvious that she would either be a diplomat or a professional skier. But destiny had other plans when she turned 30. Ever since, Roš has enamoured critics and gourmands alike with her creative reimagining of dishes cooked by her ancestors from the Soča Valley.

The quinquagenarian’s innovative approach has earned her recognition from all quarters. After being awarded the World’s Best Female Chef in 2017 by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, she went on to receive Best Chef Pristine Award in 2022, and a Michelin Green Star (a title that rewards sustainable gastronomy) in 2023. 

That’s not all. Roš has also been the subject of an episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table, and third on the Best Chef Awards list in 2023. She is also the ambassador of gastronomic tourism at the World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO).

Roš’s recent visit to India, through exclusive pop-ups with the Taj Group, in collaboration with Conosh, a community of food enthusiasts focused on curated dining experiences, cooking workshops, and more, was marked with excitement. 

On the sidelines of a pop-up in Delhi, YS Life caught a moment with Roš to understand how she’s put Slovenia on the global culinary map, her philosophy that guides Hiša Franko, and more. 

Edited excerpts from the conversation: 

YS Life (YSL): When did you discover your love for cooking? Do you remember any experiments in the kitchen during your childhood?

Ana Roš (AR): I didn’t really cook as a child—I was primarily into sports, mainly skiing. One day, my sister and I tried to experiment with a cake to make my mother happy, but we forgot to bake it. The neighbours made the entire apartment eat the cake, which wasn’t baked (laughs). That was my first cooking experiment as a child and probably the last one!      

While in college, I cooked quick pastas to feed myself, but no real cooking. That only happened many years later. 

YSL: How did you foray into the world of cuisine?

AR: I began cooking very late—when I was 30-years old. I am a self-taught cook, I’ve never studied in any school to learn this art. I remember taking over the kitchen as a complete beginner. Of course, I exercised creativity and freedom in cooking and combining things. That freedom continues to define me.      

Somehow, the fact that I was so different, unlike others in this space, drew the attention of several journalists. That’s how it all began! 

YSL: Tell us about your award-winning restaurant Hiša Franko and your philosophy behind it. 

AR: Hiša Franko is our home. There is a lot of heart and love in all we do. There’s a special vibe to the place, it’s very personal. We are also quite remote from any big city—Venice is an hour and a half away, while Ljubljana (Slovenia's capital) is about two hours away.      

So, we are in the middle of the countryside with no big developments or people around. And the nature around us is just amazing—it’s a rare thing today to have a working fine-dining restaurant in such a location.

Our main idea at Hiša Franko is to keep the traditions alive. Our dishes are closely connected to the Slovenian terroir and what our ancestors would make. Being aware of these two things—and continuously exploring them—is the basis that I create from, and use modern techniques in that process. 

I am supported by beautiful nature that surrounds me and people that take care of it. There are young foragers and cheese-makers at 2,000 metres altitude, and winemakers and river and sea fishermen that are my local community. They produce things organically as nature here is very unspoiled. I think this is one of the things that really inspires me and my cuisine. 

The food at Hiša Franko is everything but boring. I try to explore the edges and push boundaries by using local ingredients.

YSL: Are there any signature dishes that you would like to highlight, shining the spotlight on some local ingredients you use in your cooking?

AR: Hiša Franko is known for not having signature dishes. There are two classics but there are slight changes made to it, all the time. One is a potato baked in a hay crust. The other one is corn beignet filled with fermented cottage cheese, smoked trout roe, and wild chives. They actually represent the ingredients we love cooking with. The hay, fermented cottage cheese, and trout comes from the high mountains. 

YSL: Do you believe you’ve been instrumental in putting Slovenia on the culinary map? 

AR: I don't know if I have been instrumental; I think I was spontaneous. My work is speaking for itself. And well, Slovenia is slowly becoming one of the interesting food destinations. It is one of the greenest countries and cuisines of the world. And I think it's time that things move in a positive way

YSL: What’s next in the pipeline?

AR: We’ve opened a lot of projects in the past year and we need to consolidate them and give them a lot of love. So that is a focus. At this moment, we are not ready for big expansions.  

Last year, we opened a young dining concept restaurant in Ljubljana called Jaz. Jaz means ‘me’ in Slovenian and Ana in Arabic also means ‘me’. So, it’s a personal project that I’m dedicating a lot of love to. 

But we also opened a bakery called Pekarna Ana about a year and a half ago with some great breads, most of them 100% sourdough. It also has some incredible sandwiches.