Moglu’s refreshing take on vegetarian food is an inclusive feast for all

Many people across the world have been eating plant-based diet for centuries. And India claims the top spot, with 38% of its total population identifying as vegetarian, as per a report by World Atlas.

People choose vegetarian lifestyle for a number of reasons—vegetarian diets tend to have fewer calories, lower levels of saturated fat and cholesterol, and has more fiber.

Despite the staggering number of people who choose a vegetarian lifestyle in India, very few restaurants offer meals that cater to their sensibilities. There are of course, popular remixes of meat classics, like the paneer shawarma–a replacement for chicken or lamb, or even the paneer biryani or jackfruit biryani. But more often than not, vegetarian dishes emerge as an afterthought for most kitchens.

For Bengaluru-based Moglu, vegetables are really the focal point. Co-founded by Ankita Shree and Kiran Narayanan in 2024, the restaurant is a celebration of vegetarianism.

Shree and Narayanan describe their menu as borderless, having dishes that pay homage to South Indian classics like the moorukutan, to a revisioned American classic, the hamburger with barbeque lion’s mane mushroom as the main source of protein.

Or take for instance, the dashi mushroom soup. Most Japanese dishes, traditionalists would argue, need to include a protein meaty component like fish. Moglu has achieved the same type of umami and feels with mushrooms incased within this dumpling and a dashi to match, which is no simple feat.

From Saudi Arabia to New York, and now to Bengaluru, the founders have carried along a strong passion for all things food and beverage.

You can see this reflected in their drinks menu as well, all of which are zero-proof cocktails, that is, drinks that mimic or borrow from their alcoholic counterparts, without the alcohol bit. It was a very well-considered decision to lead with a menu that didn’t have alcohol, says Shree.

“There are so many other places here where you can drink if you’d like… but you can definitely come here for the food,” she tells YS Life.

Moglu also does a refreshing take on the Limoncello–an Italian lemon liqueur. The drink feels like a whisper to the original classic, which for limoncello enthusiasts is a win.

Another refresher, the lychee champagne, was also surprisingly delicious. It lives up to its name as a refreshing non-alcoholic alternative, as the lightness of the drink helps cut through any spice that you might have on your dish.

The Moglu experience

A keen attention to detail shows consumers that you really care, and this can be witnessed in every part in Moglu. For instance, as soon as you walk in, you’re welcomed by custom rattan décor. Shree says the furniture was all custom designed for the place. For instance, the high chairs here are unlike what you would find elsewhere—they are broad and have a low seating, which makes it easy to move around.

While the seating is limited, it is a mix of booths and tables, giving room to seat groups that are both large and small. This lends the restaurant a cosy atmosphere, perfect for intimate gatherings.

The restaurant entrance also has all fixtures that contain pickle jars. Narayanan says, the pickling tradition has been part of the Indian culture for centuries. Moglu is attempting to bring these techniques front and centre in a contemporary manner.

Apart from this, pickling and fermentation are a large part of what Moglu’s menu.

For instance, pickles are used in its Beirut Sharing platter–a dish that allows you to build your own pita pockets. It’s packed with all the essentials–from a delectably smoky and crisp baba ganoush, to the Muhammara (a spicy dip made of roasted peppers, walnuts, pomegranate molasses, and breadcrumbs). Each dip is served in small bowls, along with the pita on the side, inviting diners to build themselves a pocket to their liking.

All these elements come together to deliver a flavourful punch.

Moglu also makes kombuchas in house, says Shree.

The one commonality among all the things Moglu serves is their presentation—there is an emphasis on making the dish look beautiful and appealing. For instance, the chocolate dessert arrives in a sesame cup filled with chocolate soil, and is carefully decorated with meringue mushrooms, giving the whole dish the look of a stroll in the garden.

All of the dishes are carefully thought down—right from the pickling agent to even a simple side dish like the mascerated grapes. This is by choice, says Narayanan, who is also the executive chef. Narayanan went to culinary school shortly after the pandemic to pursue his passion for food.

“Often, when vegetarians go out, they are stuck with either crispy corn or paneer tikka. Here, we want to present vegetarian food in the same way one would do a steak,” he says.

This philosophy drives through most of Moglu’s menu. The barbeque lion’s mane burger, for instance, is satiating in the way a meaty burger would, but without the meat. The barbeque is smoky, sweet and the lion’s mane mushroom lends the dish an umami taste that ties it whole.

Another standout is the poached pear. The poaching liquid, which is generally wine, here is replaced with a grape juice instead of wine, but still packs a meaty juicy punch. The dish is held together with a bright berry sauce and some cream, making it the perfect chaser for an otherwise fulfilling meal.

It would be remiss to not speak about Keerai Molagootal soup. As a Kerala Tamilian, I’m aware of how specific families are when it comes to dishes like these. It is also a dish of comfort–one that reminds you of home, and Narayanan got that essence absolutely spot on. The broth is warm, and paired with beans poriyal, and the sun dried vadam (rice wafer) on top, it is hard to miss.

Overall, Moglu offers a refreshing menu. In a city most prominently known for its bars, making the bold choice to do elevated vegetarian food without drinks is commendable. I know I’ll definitely be coming back for more.

That being said, perhaps the menu could include more Indian classics and increase the family-style offerings.

Average price for 2: Rs 1,200 per person

Timings: Open 7 days, 10 am to 12 am.