Discover Sariska’s secrets far beyond wildlife

The mere mention of Delhi is likely to conjure up images of a smoke chamber, where its residents are constantly huffing and puffing. While this may sound a little exaggerated, it’s safe to assume that we are forever looking for excuses to escape the polluted environs and take a breather (almost, literally). Of course it helps that the capital city is within close proximity to some spectacular hill towns and wildlife destinations.

On one such weekend in chilly December, I decided to pack my bags and head to the Sariska Tiger Reserve in Rajasthan’s Alwar district, with a group of fellow journalists. It was an impulsive decision but one that turned out to be more worthwhile than I had expected.

Like most travellers, I was fixated on spotting big cats like tigers and leopards – but what stayed with me were the myriad secrets I discovered in the forest. From spotting exotic birds to exploring ancient temples, and stumbling upon towering forts – we did it all. 

The sweet sounds of the forest

Forests can be both enchanting and intimidating – after all, they house several species of birds and animals. As long as you do not trespass protected areas or disturb its inhabitants, there’s nothing to worry about (refrain from speaking loudly or playing music). Whether you are an amateur or a frequent visitor to the forest, the ground rule is to have a wildlife guide or a trained naturalist for company to help you navigate through the various zones. 

There’s another advantage – most of them double up as storytellers, so you may hear of some interesting tales that only they are privy to!

Before anyone tells you otherwise, try making your way to the forest at the crack of dawn. I  say this from experience — that’s because our first few moments in the Tiger Reserve were magical to say the least. The sun was peeking through the trees, as we were treated to a multitude of sounds in the forest. Pure bliss!

As we drove further, a pride of peacocks spread their train – it almost felt like a grand welcome. Soon after, we spotted pelicans, bar-headed geese, a pair of Indian scops owl, and parakeets, amongst other species. It didn’t end there – we could intermittently hear alarm calls, which meant that a predatory species was lurking around. What an adventure!

Interestingly, the forest here has over 280 varieties of resident and migratory birds (some endangered ones too), and the best time to experience birding is in winter. So, get ready to unleash the birding enthusiast in you!

Of lore and legends

Who would have thought that a visit to the forest would throw up legends from the time of Mughal emperors? But, it did! 

When in Sariska, make a stop at the 17th-century Kankwari Fort that is perched on a hillock, set within the quaint Kankwari village. It is here that Aurangzeb enslaved his brother, Dara Shikoh. Remember that you may not spot the fortress easily, but keep treading deep into the forest and you will find your way.

The climb to the top may take a good 20 minutes (depending on your stamina), but it affords some of the most stunning vistas of the forest. We enjoyed breakfast with a view here, and it was one of the most unforgettable moments from our trip!

Another sight that is a must-visit in Sariska is the Neelkanth Mahadev temple, which is believed to have been built between the 6th and 9th centuries, and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The foundation of the structure was laid by Maharajadhiraja Mathanadeva Bargujar, as revealed by an inscription and rock edict that finds a mention in Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan. 

The partially reconstructed temple complex sits atop an isolated plateau, which is surrounded by several ancient ruins. The magnificent sculptures (those that haven’t been damaged) are visually striking and reflect the architectural prowess of rulers in the era bygone. A little distance away is a Jain temple that boasts an imposing statue of the 23rd Tirthankara – a marvel at best!

A little distance away…

If you have some more time on your hands, you could also plan a visit to Chand Baori, said to be one of the largest stepwells in the world. 

Located about 45 kms from Sariska Tiger Reserve, this stunning structure was constructed by King Chanda, the then ruler of the Nikumbh dynasty in the 9th century. It may sound astounding, but Chand Baori has as many as 3,500 steep steps, with 13 levels built in sandstone. The interlocking system construction looks captivating and is best viewed on a moonlit night.

The best stays

Now that we have everything covered in Sariska, it’s also equally important to find a stay that is in tune with your tastes. 

If you want to soak in the wilderness in the true sense, head to Utsav Camp Sariska, a retreat set in Sariska’s Tehla region, surrounded by boulders, deciduous forests, and the stunning Aravalli hills. Founded by Luv Singh Shekhawat, a trained naturalist, this resort is nothing short of a green oasis away from the humdrum of city life.

Wake up to the chirping of birds and enjoy stargazing at night, or relax on the outdoor patio and sip on a steaming hot brew – the experiences are truly relaxing! The well-appointed, luxurious tents and stone cabins make for a comfortable stay and will make you come back for sure.

(Cost/night: Rs 14,000-18,000 for double occupancy-- inclusive of all meals + GST)

If adventure is what makes you tick, go for a glamping experience at Camp Kooncha Sariska, set amidst forested hills. The tents are cosy and comfortable, and have all the amenities in place. 

You may not get the best network here, but we think that’s the best part – after all, a few days away from the madness hurt no one! Whether it’s enjoying a quiet night by the bonfire, a picnic in an idyllic spot, or short hikes around – they plan it all. The founder, Udaijit, is full of life and will treat you to some fun banter – and that adds to the experience.

(Cost/night: Rs 25,000 for double occupancy-- inclusive of all meals and non-alcoholic beverages, hike, village visit, lake visit, Bhangarh or Neelkanth or Abhaneri visit + GST)

So, what are you waiting for? Enjoy Sariska in all its glory – you will be rewarded with memories that last a lifetime!

All you need to know

Distance from New Delhi: 193 km

Best time of the year: October-March

To find out more about safaris and to make bookings, see here.

(The writer's visit to the Sariska Tiger Reserve was arranged by RARE India)