Designer Mayyur Girotra’s new luxury pret line is a love letter to the LGBTQIA+ community
YS Life caught up with designer Mayyur Girotra, a leading name in bridal couture, on the showcase of his luxury pret line, AIKYA, at the New York Pride 2023.
Celebrated couturier Mayyur Girotra’s design sensibilities have taken him to many places. His aesthetic is all about fusing traditional and contemporary elements, represented through a rich palette of colour and embroidery on Western silhouettes.
He has stores in India, New Jersey and New York. His bridal couture has been adorned by celebrities including Sara Ali Khan, Deepika Padukone, Shilpa Shetty, Alia Bhatt, as well as the late Sridevi.
In 2022, Girotra showcased his concept, Zamani that featured monochrome lehengas and saris with intricate embroidery, at the first-ever South Asian New York Fashion Week (SANYFW) in New York. This year, he is all set to launch his first luxury pret line (high quality, factory-made), AIKYA, with an exclusive showcase that will kickstart Pride Month and celebrate New York Pride 2023 on June 2 at Āve–Soho NYC amid the backdrop of historic photographs of queer people from India.
The showcase, which has been three months in the making, will be facilitated through collaboration with Leaders of Pride at Google and the Indus Google Network Employee Resource Groups as concept partners for runway representation that includes various gender identities and sexual orientations.
AIKYA, meaning unity, is a fusion of Western silhouettes with Indian embroidery and techniques. Girotra’s expert craft blends a vibrant mix of colours and emotions that represent the LGBTQIA+ community worldwide. The luxury pret line includes trench coats, high-waisted pants, kurta shirts, skirts, ski jackets, and more.
When Girotra got to know that he would showcase at the New York Pride 2023, he decided to present a concept that’s fluid and non-binary—and something that is universally accepted.
Girotra says the collection pushed him out of his comfort zone. "I dedicate a love letter to my LGBTQIA+ family through the lens of my craft. From concept to execution, the Google team has been a strategic partner in building my vision,” he shares with YS Life.
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Despite the influx of influence, the designer has maintained his signature style in the new showcase that screams culture. As always, the focus is on embroidery and technique that Girotra says he can’t get away from. AIKYA has creations imbued with aari and authentic Kutch work on resham, gota, and more. His collection will be presented on the runway by models from the South Asian and queer community.
While each piece is a work of art, Girotra has a soft spot for the heart-shaped mirror jackets that have aari embroidery. Since there are several surprise elements in the collection, he wants the audience to wait until the collection officially launches on June 2.
Having the opportunity to showcase at New York Pride 2023 is a landmark moment. However, Girotra believes he has manifested this milestone. Every piece for him is made with a multitude of emotions involved, making the process far more special than any other.
“The show is associated with a strong cause. Acceptance is the future. However, sometimes, in my head, I don’t understand why we need to go to court to fight for love. I am releasing all those emotions and channelising them into fashion. It has truly been cathartic and beautiful. I feel a certain rush in my body,” he states.
This is a personal win for Girotra. He considers himself fortunate to be the ‘chosen one’ to have a platform where he can represent his community with pride. While the tide is turning in urban centres around acceptance of gender identities and sexual orientations, the designer feels there’s a long way to go in smaller cities.
“In metropolitan cities, we have put ourselves out there, showing loud and proud that this is a reality. I belong to a typical Punjabi family and when I came out to my mother, it was a struggle but it was relatively easy. My parents have witnessed progress in society,” he says.
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There has been much discussion on June, the pride month, being a marketing ploy for brands, making it a form of tokenism. While Girotra believes it should not just be about June, he believes a strategy like this is important at this stage to help people get acquainted with the community.
“Don’t we celebrate so many other days? I feel Pride Month is required at this stage. There are so many individuals who are struggling and are unable to get access to their own lives. I believe every move and discussion is important today to bring change. We are even calling the launch of my line at Pride, a movement of solidarity. It is not just a moment that will be forgotten,” he concludes.
Girotra’s AIKYA will be available in his designer stores in India, New York and New Jersey, as well as Aza stores in India and The Grand Trunk in California.
Edited by Kanishk Singh