With focus on fermentation, this restaurant takes diners on a gastronomic ride across India

In Indiranagar’s gastronomic 12th Main Road, a new restaurant is turning heads. 

Idyll conjures up images of something happy and peaceful, although fleeting. However, Bengaluru’s latest Indian small plates and cocktail restaurant, Idylll, is spelt with an extra ‘l’. YS Life wondered why.

“We believe in numerology, and that is why we have added the extra ‘l’...But the basic brand philosophy is taking the age-old recipes and cooking techniques and making them look spectacular on your plate,” Co-founder Namokar Jain tells YS Life. 

Opening its doors to food enthusiasts and drink connoisseurs earlier this month, Idylll celebrates India’s rich heritage and culinary creativity through a holistic sensory experience not just through the surroundings but also through its crafted cuisine. 

The restaurant’s outdoor, featuring its logo—five concentrated circles resembles the rings of a tree trunk. “The transition from the outermost to the innermost ring signifies the journey from raw, traditional roots to the exquisite dining experience,” Namokar explains. 

“Much like the ageing process of a tree trunk, the culinary creations (at Idylll) are not rushed, allowing the flavours to develop and mature, while creating dishes that are layered with complexity and nuance,” he adds. 

A walk through the large door of Idylll leads one to the main dining area. Inspired by the celebratory structures in Jaipur, the space, designed by Bengaluru-based The Purple Ink Studio, reflects the intricate details of the city’s heritage. The walls, painted in earthy monotones, are enhanced with wall frescoes and art—mostly terracotta vessels, and bowls, adding a window into the cultural narrative. 

The main idea behind keeping the decor subtle and monolithic, is to make the food the protagonist of the Idylll story. And the makers are successful in doing so. 

The space, conceptualised by experience designers Envelop, has conceived the Idylll Theory featuring finer attention to detail—from earthy aroma, fermentation-inspired menu, live cooking, and fusion entertainment. 

The first floor is high energy, and features an island bar at the centre, with focus on cocktails and live entertainment. 

The menu pays homage to the age-old recipes and cooking techniques of Indian states, while adding a contemporary twist to it.

Small plates feature the likes of Baingan Chokha Hummus with baked sattu (gram flour) chips, smoked green chilli and achaar foam—a contemporary twist to baingan chokha with litti;  Guacamole Papad, instead of desi bar bite masala papad; Paneer Changezi Taco in rumali shell, served with jalapeno raita and cheese podi—an attempt to recreate the full meal—Awadhi paneer changezi, with rumali roti and mint raita, as a bar bite. 

An Idylll signature, the taco, although high in flavour, could do with a soft rumali shell, instead of the extra oil from the roti, fried to crisp. The changezi’s flavour seemed to have disappeared from the overpowering roti-taco. 

The Bocconcini Paniyaram is a fermented special at Idylll. The fried dough of fermented urad dal and rice batter comes with a twist of mozzarella cheese, served on a plate of sundried tomato chutney and topped with basil-marinated bocconcini. Although reminiscent of the South Indian paniyaram or paddu, the crispy balls reminded me of crispy American cheese balls—a hit to begin with. 

For the lovers of Konkani flavours, there’s Maharashtra’s spicy Chicken Koliwada with green chilli thecha (chilli, peanut chutney) and kokum yoghurt dip; Goan Chorizo Kachori Chaat with Aloo Rassa Reduction; and Soft shell crab pakoda with smoked pineapple. The Prawn Chettinad with podi masala and curry leaf oil reminded me of the flavours of Kerala’s backwaters. 

Kebabs make up for a major portion of the food menu at Idylll. Forget the desi ghee-loaded tikkas and tangdi kebabs, and prepare to be surprised with a non-meaty Edamame Galouti. Served on a bite-size baked shirmal, the kebab was topped with garlic feta and white truffle scent. Although meant to be made with mutton or lamb, the edamame galouti featured the same melt-in-the-mouth texture and flavours. 

For foodies who don’t wish to compromise with their non-veg protein, Idylll offers pestle chilli marinated chicken wings with tadka sour cream, New Zealand lamb chops with tamarind sauce, Kakori kebab with Warki paratha, Norwegian salmon Malai Tikka, Kaffir Lime River Sole, and Gongura Tiger Prawns, among others. 

The team pays extra attention to the plating—there’s a generous use of edible flowers, microgreens, cheese, sauces and chutneys, to make sure each dish looks top notch.  

The main course—taking diners to the North of India, with a quick stop at Kashmir and Rajasthan, before heading back to Central India—feature the likes of Dal Tadka, Dal Makhni, dhaba-style Malai Kofta, Butter Chicken, Laal Maas, Chaman Qaliya, Nalli Nihari, and Bhopali Chicken Korma. 

The mains can be paired with the multiple bread options—black garlic naan, Camembert Cheese Kulcha, Parmesan and seed mixed naan, and Khamiri Roti; or enjoyed with truffle lemon rice or Kashmir’s Yakhni Pulao. 

To end with, diners can choose from an array of traditional regional desserts, with a modern twist. There’s Tiramisu Ghevar bringing the best of East and West together, Mango Kalakand on matcha wafer cones and pista crumbs; Mizoram Wild Rice Kheer with berries and dry fruits; and Rabdi mini malpua with mawa. 

Alternatively, the bar serves The Drunk Halwai—a vodka-based dessert-in-a-glass, with rabdi reduction, condensed milk and fresh cream. 

Verdict 

With subtle colours and traditional, yet minimalist decor, food does become the centrepiece at Idylll. The round tables ensure there’s chatter and discussions surrounding the flavours and textures.  

The cocktails, however, need more work. With a promising cocktail scene around Indiranagar’s neighbourhood (think Lavelle Road and UB City), Idylll needs to up its game. 

The striking green sugary jelly in the Next Door gin cocktail made it all the less appetising; and the Kashmiri Old Fashioned was, at most, average. The Drunk Halwai, though, was the star of the cocktail show, and a perfect drink to end the meal with. 

Namokar says that the restaurant will keep changing its menu across seasons—to incorporate the best of seasonal, fresh produce, and to ensure that diners get to try something new during every visit. Idylll also plans to introduce a chef’s tasting menu, for those who like experimenting with the flavours. 

With a bustling food scene around, Idylll will have to be consistent with its offerings and flavours to make a mark in the city. 

YS Life suggests: Bocconcini Paniyaram, Edamame Galouti, Prawn Chettinad, Chicken Koliwada, Bhopali Chicken Korma, Mango Kalakand, The Drunk Halwai. 

Timings: 12 PM to 12 AM

Cost for two: Rs 3,000