From Kerala to Cannes: Diya John’s Salt Studio is making inclusive fashion for women

It was India’s moment in the sun at the Cannes Film Festival this year as Payal Kapadia’s All We Imagine as Light won the Grand Prix. 

While the film director and her cast stole the show on the red carpet at Cannes, actor Kani Kasruti’s watermelon sliced bag garnered immense recognition and appreciation for the cause it championed. The actor decided to show her solidarity on the red carpet with her bag, which has the colours of the Palestinian flag.

While the green, red, and black beaded bag was a well thought out statement from the actor, it was designer and stylist Diya John who helped Kasruti put her look together.

Based out of Kochi, John’s designer boutique, Salt Studio, embodies the same infectious energy and warm smile that radiates from her designs. Her design philosophy, reflected throughout the studio, is simple yet powerful. 

In a conversation with YS Life, she says, “‘SALT’ was chosen for its transformative power—just like a pinch of salt enhances a dish, I believe a touch of Salt Studio can bring out the unique flavour in every woman.”

John’s love affair with fashion began in her school days. She wasn’t just the girl who participated in every co-curricular activity—she was the one who brought a touch of magic to everything she did. Whether it was athletics or a dance, John found ways to express her individuality. This passion, nurtured by a supportive family and friends, eventually blossomed into all she is today, and her brainchild, Salt Studio.

Inclusivity is the lifeblood of Salt Studio. John doesn't cater to a specific size or style; she caters to women. Her designs celebrate diversity, offering a range of silhouettes that flatter various body types. Its focus lies in silhouettes that blend modern and traditional elements, creating a timeless style that transcends fleeting trends.

Inspiration in mundane

Kochi's vibrant culture plays a significant role in shaping John’s design aesthetic. The rich heritage of Kerala is woven into the very fabric of Salt Studio, serving as a constant source of inspiration. This influence is evident in the way traditional textiles and motifs are reimagined in a contemporary way. A closer look at a Salt Studio garment does reveal Kerala’s rich textile tradition, reinterpreted with a modern twist. Salt Studio reimagines the graceful movement of traditional drapes and gathers, integrating them into contemporary designs for a touch of tradition and elegance in everyday wear. By incorporating these drapes into modern fits, Salt Studio makes these garments more accessible to working women, transforming the cultural clothing into effortless pieces for the woman's wardrobe. 

“The tropical climate in Kerala allows only certain fabrics for us to be comfortable in, so experimenting with the textile and bringing out a never-seen-before design to them is what we do,” says John.

The inspiration for John’s designs can strike anywhere. “Watching a flower bloom could be a print,” she quips. 

The key, however, lies in translating these inspirations into wearable pieces that empower women. “Our design process is about taking those sparks of inspiration and transforming them into garments that make women feel confident and beautiful,” adds John. “We want our clothes to be an extension of a woman’s personality, a way for her to express her individuality with a touch of modern elegance.”

This philosophy is evident in every stitch of a Salt Studio creation. 

At Cannes, Kusruti walked the carpet in a white, knee-rise bodycon dress intricately woven with traditional patterns. Puff sleeves and a plunging V-neck added a touch of modern sophistication. The look was further accentuated by statement hoop earrings with jhumkas and a bindi. 

“We gave a little bindi for her to represent her roots,” says John. The design is a statement piece, conveying a sense of strength and confidence that allows the wearer to own the room. 

Salt Studio goes beyond the visual pleasure of the look and strives to create a social impact through it. 

“Art has the potential to initiate or bring out social changes,” she says, with playful designs like ‘the watermelon bag’, a reminder that fashion like any other art has this transformative power. Sometimes, as John says, “It’s about the cause and the intention.” 

After acquiring a global reach, whispers abound about potential collaborations for Salt Studio. However, John remains tight-lipped, leaving a hint of exciting possibilities on the horizon. One thing is certain—Salt Studio is a brand to watch out for.

Previously, Malayalam cinema stars like Rima Kallingal, Anna Ben, Parvathy Thiruvothu, Aparna Balamurali, and Navya Nair have adorned Divya John’s designs. 

Rocky road 

The journey of Salt Studio hasn’t been a smooth ride. Financial setbacks due to the pandemic and the Kerala floods threatened to dampen John’s spirit. However, these challenges only fuelled her determination, she says.  

“There were moments when I considered shutting down,” John acknowledges.

“Instead, I found myself even more motivated to bring my dream back to life.”

John works with a vision and she is never demotivated no matter what. “Whenever I felt devoid of motivation or on the verge of giving up, I’d turn on a movie. Survival thrillers or inspirational stories—those were my fuel. They reminded me that with perseverance, we can overcome any obstacle,” says John. 

John’s story exemplifies resilience and the transformative power of fashion. She’s now also venturing into styling, driven by a desire to empower women to discover their unique style. 

Salt Studio is more than just a label—it’s a home, a home to her employees and her customers. 

“It’s my second home,” says John . This sentiment resonates with her customers too. “We’ve had customers who take a two-hour drive to visit the studio! They say it has such a comforting atmosphere,” reveals John. A quick chat with the employees confirms this. The positive energy is palpable, and everyone seem to be thriving in this creative space.