Say no to Universal and Sentosa, and see a completely different side of Singapore, Southeast Asia’s startup hub
It seems as if thousands of Indians are holidaying in Singapore at any given time. But there’s a quieter, slower side to this buzzing tourist hub. We tell you where to find it
It may be the destination that most Indians love to travel to – a whopping 1.32 million of us landed in Singapore in 2018 – but Southeast Asia’s startup hub is, no surprises there, also on top of most entrepreneurs’ list.
A 2017 report by US-based Startup Genome project, which covered 10,000 startups and 300 partner companies, revealed that the tiny island had “overtaken tech mecca Silicon Valley as the world’s number one for startup talent”.
The country’s innovative policies, ease of starting businesses, government subsidies, and geographical location are behind its startup success. Over the last few years, a number of Indian startups, including Flipkart, Mobikon, Medialink, and Milaap, have set up base in Singapore, citing the easy incorporation process, friendly tax regime, robust infrastructure, and accessibility to capital.
Do entrepreneurs (and those in the making) need any more reasons to scope out this multi-cultural, cosmopolitan island state? Once there, we suggest you get off the beaten track. Forget Universal Studios, Sentosa, and Singapore Eye. There’s a lot more you can do in this buzzing tourist magnet.
Neighbourhood watch
The world throngs China Town and Little India, but we suggest you head to other, less-crowded areas. Singapore’s oldest housing estate, Tiong Bahru, which was originally a burial ground, has turned a new leaf. It is now one of the city’s hippest neighbourhoods where art and culture coalesce. The art deco architecture and old-style murals that dot the walls make a leisurely walk an extremely enchanting experience.
Tiong Bahru, Singapore
Explore the many indie boutiques and make yourself at home at a bookshop. Stop off for cupcakes at Plain Vanilla Bakery, coffee at Forty Hands, brunch at Flock Cafe, or a main meal at 4 Bincho, a seven-decade-old local coffee shop.
There's plenty to do at Dempsey Hill, once a nutmeg plantation that later served as a military camp.
Dempsey Hill
The area has a laidback appeal, which makes it extremely popular with expats. Forage for antiques at one of the many stores, try pottery at Impressions Art Studio, or book a meal at Candlenut, the world’s first Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant.
If you're looking to up your Instagram game, head to the Old Hill Street Police Station (the rainbow blinds are gorgeous against the white facade) or the colourful houses on Koon Seng Road.
Old Hill Street Police Station
Museum hopping
Indulge your arty side by spending a day or two at Singapore’s many museums. Artfully located in a glass-fronted building along the Marina Bay Waterfront, the Red Dot Design Museum celebrates design in all forms.
Apart from umpteen design exhibitions, the museum has a design shop where it’s possible to pick up carefully curated design objects. Tickets are priced at S$4.40 (for ages 7-12) and S$11.80 (age 13 and above). If you haven’t had the traditional rice dumplings, the cafe bar offers a selection.
Art Science Museum
The Art Science Museum, housed in a white structure inspired by a lotus, brings together art, science, design, media, architecture and technology through permanent and touring exhibitions. THE FUTURE WORLD: Where Arts Meets Science is immersive and interactive, and creates a digital universe with 16 unique installations. All-access tickets are priced at S$40 for an adult and S$110 for a family.
Eat like a local
The fancy cafes and restaurants – and there are just so many dotting every neighbourhood – may look inviting, but make your way to a kopitiam, the local coffee shop.
The centre of life in most neighbourhoods, every kopitiam serves up the traditional Singaporean breakfast – local coffee (think Indian filter coffee), soft-boiled eggs, and crisp slices of toast dripping with butter and kaya, an eggy coconut jam (you’re sure to cart home a couple of bottles).
A traditional breakfast in Singapore
For main meals, forget fine dining and get in line at a hawker centre to enjoy local delicacies like Hainanese chicken rice, fried carrot cake, duck rice, satay, dim sum, or popiah (a thin wheat crepe that encases savoury fillings). Round off your meal with an ice kacang (a mound of shaved ice topped with red bean, agar agar jelly, grass jelly, palm seeds, etc).
A chicken and rice dish
Or choose from fluffy Pandan chiffon cake, Cheng Tng (clear cane sugar soup with red dates, lotus seeds, and barley), Orh Nee (yam paste balls dunked in sugar syrup), and Tang Yuan (glutinous rice balls with peanut, red bean, or black sesame stuffing). Saving the best for the last: beancurd, a silky, soybean pudding that you won't get enough of!
The best street food is up for grabs at the centres at Tiong Bahru, Maxwell Road, and Old Airport Road. Bonus: A full meal will set you back less than S$20.
Freebie paradise
Singapore may be expensive, but it's possible to enjoy a range of activities without reaching for your wallet.
Light and sound show
Catch any (or all) of the three spectacular light and sound shows and be dazzled by multicoloured displays in the night sky. Choose from Spectra at Marina Bay Sands (8pm, 9pm, and 11pm), OCBC Garden Rhapsody (7.45pm and 8.45pm), and Crane Dance (8pm at Sentosa). Begin your morning by hiking at Mount Faber, visit the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, and check out the views from the 55th level of ION Orchard.
The MacRitchie Treetop Walk lets you enjoy quietude, and a bird's eye view of the greenery below. Stop off at Haw Par Villa, established by the founders of Tiger Balm to perpetuate traditional Chinese values.
St. Andrew's Cathedral in Singapore
Light a candle at St Andrew's Cathedral, the largest and oldest cathedral in Singapore, and visit Sri Mariamman Temple, the oldest - and most colourful - Hindu temple in Singapore.
Looking for an unusual dinner destination? Picnic at the Esplanade Roof Garden amid stunning views. Last but not the least, the Singapore Really Really Free Market offers a variety of things - for free. Just pick up what you like!
Getting around
The cheapest and easiest way to get around Singapore is by the Mass Rapid Transit (MRT), the public railway system.
All MRT stations have ticketing counters and self-serviced ticketing machines All you need to do is by an EZlink card, which can be used on trains and buses.
Prices are competitive: S$10 for a one-day pass, S$16 for a two-day pass, and S$20 for a three-day pass (all passes need a refundable S$10 deposit and must be used on consecutive days). Expect to shell out much more if you flag down a cab or decide to Grab (there’s no Uber here) it.
When in Singapore
What would life be without bucket lists? Here are a few items that you must tick off while here:
● Order a Singapore Sling at Raffles Hotel, the birthplace of the popular cocktail. Put together by a bartender at the hotel’s Long Bar in 1915, this heady mix of gin, cherry Liqueur, cointreau, grenadine, pineapple and fresh lime juices, and Angostura bitters is vacation vibe in a glass. S$32 per glass
The Singapore Sling
● The aroma may seem overpowering (you can't carry one on MRT, buses or taxis), but durian is regarded by many in Singapore as the "King of Fruits". Apart from eating as is, try it in a range of dishes available at local restaurants. But bear in mind Anthony Bourdain's colourful description: "Your breath will smell as if you’d been French-kissing your dead grandmother."
The Durian fruit
● The MRT is convenient for sure, but there’s something to be said for seeing the sights on a segway (e-scooter). Super easy to ride, you can zip along as you please. S$39.90 for 1 hour.
● Channel your inner Hulk at the Fragment Room with “rage time”. Don your overalls and protective glasses and get to work on plates, glasses, a TV set, and more. S$38 for 30 minutes.
● Get bouncy at Bounce indoor trampoline park where you can let your inner child loose. Jump, bounce, fly – the sky’s the limit. You can even sign up for a Bounce-Fit aerobic session. From S$24 for 1 hour.
● Make time for the Singapore Grand Prix, the only night race in the F1 series. Held in mid-September, apart from the fast-whizzing cars, this is where you can enjoy live acts and fireworks. From S$398.
● If you love your beer but aren’t headed to Germany just yet, stop off at the Oktoberfest. Held mid-October, the ticket includes free-flow beer by famous Bavarian brewery Paulaner, a 500ml stein (traditional beer mug), and entertainment all the way from Munich. From $58 for early birds.
