Chef Niyati’s KMC* is a cosy oasis in the midst of busy Mumbai
Noma-trained Chef Niyati Rao does not want to put any labels on her restaurant, KMC*. The asterisk means ‘no conditions apply’, and this room of requirement can metamorphose into a cafe, coworking area, adda, or comfort zone.
Tucked away in a colonial-style office building in Mumbai’s Fort area, KMC* is Chef Niyati Rao’s long-drawn fantasy.
The 27-year-old, who had the opportunity to work at Noma, the three Michelin-star restaurant run by Chef René Redzepi in Copenhagen, Denmark, and among the best restaurants in the world, points to a navy blue ornate chair.
“When we were conceptualising this place, I wanted these kinds of chairs. The ones they show in movies near a fireplace. I have always wanted a place where I could do my own thing; where no one would disturb me and I could just be,” Niyati Rao tells YS Life in an interview.
Interestingly, the restaurant offers people the chance to be what they feel like. “The K in KMC* is for kitab (book), M is for mahal (palace), and C we have left to the people. It can be creative, curious, or crafty…it can be anything,” she explains.
The ornate blue chair is Chef Niyati's favorite spot
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The humid Mumbai weather doesn’t sit well with a fireplace, but the chef has kept the old colonial dining room essence intact: tall ceilings, wooden flooring, long tables, French rattan chairs, a bookshelf that almost touches the ceiling (complete with a ladder often seen in old libraries), and a working typewriter.
Niyati refuses to put a label on her “place”, which was launched in July 2022. It can be a cafe, a coworking area, a community space, or a space to chill and get so comfortable that you wouldn't mind crying.
”I have seen someone come here and cry. That’s a big compliment for me and this place because we, as a society, never cry in a public place. And, someone felt comfortable enough to do so,” she says.
Old-world style apart, KMC* also makes room for new-age design. A mezzanine floor taps the height to make room for the kitchen upstairs.
KMC's menu seem to be inspired by Niyati’s professional journey across Taj Mahal Palace’s gourmet restaurant The Zodiac Grill, Japanese restaurant Wasabi, and Copenhagen-located Noma.
The fusion of the old and new world reflects in the menu as well. The drinks, appetisers, main course, and desserts seem to be inspired by Niyati’s professional journey across Taj Mahal Palace’s gourmet restaurant The Zodiac Grill, Japanese restaurant Wasabi, Copenhagen-located Noma, and Goa.
A variety of tea selections, coffees, speciality wines, and beer are available on tap, but my eyes wandered straight to the list of wine cocktails. My inner oenophile was gleeful to see so much more than Sangria!
Made with Red, White, and Rose, the vineoctails came infused with poached pear, toasted rice, cucumber, watermelon, and even Tabasco sauce. Yep, that’s the one I ordered.
Named Asian Sour, this white wine cocktail was a spin on Tom Yum Soup. The first thing you imbibe is the aroma of kafir lime. The first sip was a medley of flavours – a hint of sour lime leaf, the tart sweetness of the wine, and a hit of chilli from the Tabasco. The taste of chilli lingers on your palette, but it’s not the kind that makes you want to douse it with water; it makes you want to take another sip.
I paired my cocktail with a Quiche X Cheesecake from the ‘Savoury’ section of the food menu, which also offers exotic-sounding dishes like Coffee Glazed Ribs, Coffee Glazed Roots, Brioche Podi, and Foamed Eggs with Seasonal Veggies.
The portion size at KMC* is good and the average cost could be Rs 1,000-1,200 for two people. This is an affordable price considering the experience the restaurant provides
My Quiche X Cheesecake had a thin, cheesecake-like crust. Cream cheese married a cumin and herb seasoning, and got a spicy hit from the red bell pepper jam. The Japanese cucumber and green lettuce– covered in a sweet and tangy vinaigrette– brought the whole dish together.
By the time I reached the main course, the food started to get a bit more interesting – and showcased more fusion.
The Masoor Tagliatelle, a lentil-based pasta, is offered in an eggless variation.
I found the Spinach Gnudi, a take on traditional gnocchi, worth the first – and perhaps second- try. Instead of potato, the pasta balls were filled with spinach and cream cheese, offering a dense yet creamy texture. The green tomato sauce added a much-needed tang and lightness to the dish. The sprinkled capers elevated the sourness, while the crispy okra, coated in spices and deep fried, provided a crunchy texture.
The Spinach Gnudi is a take on traditional gnocchi, which is worth the first – and perhaps second- try.
The dessert menu was also a melding of flavours, tastes, and ingredients. The options included Foamed Yoghurt with Sage and Lemon, Coffee Tres Leches with Mascarpone, and Dulcey and Peach Swiss Roll.
But after two flavourful courses, I wanted something simple. I picked KMC*’s take on the humble banana bread. The Japanese-style sweet and nutty fusion - Banana Bread with Tahini and Miso - intrigued me.
Topped with miso ice cream and drizzled with tahini toffee caramel, the bread was melt-in-the-mouth moist. The salty miso from the ice cream, the sweet taste of the caramel, and the nutty aftertaste of the tahini were interesting, but I wasn’t the biggest fan.
The dessert menu was also a melding of flavours, tastes, and ingredients. The options included Foamed Yoghurt with Sage and Lemon, and Coffee Tres Leches.
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The portion size at KMC* is good and the average cost could be Rs 1,000-1,200 for two people. This is an affordable price considering the experience the restaurant provides– with the ambience, food and drinks, and the no-disturbing-the customer rule.
Our server, Arul, among other staff members, was extremely upbeat and friendly. The entire staff seemed genuinely happy at work, taking their ‘service with a smile’ motto very seriously.
Niyati says this attitude is because of how she runs the kitchen. “I could be very demanding on some days. But it is more like a tough love kind of situation. And people who stick around at this restaurant probably see it,” she says.
Niyati has bigger plans for KMC* and wants it to become a buzzing place where artists can show their work and host talks and sessions even as people blow off steam after work or relish me-time with a good, strong cuppa.
Edited by Teja Lele