Time stops in this luxury resort nestled in a coffee and spice plantation

“Elephants are a lot smarter than we give them credit for,” Jackson, the in-house naturalist at Evolve Back, Coorg tells me. Out for a tour of the Chikkana Halli Coffee Estate in a 4x4 jeep, Jackson explains how despite innovative attempts, the tuskers always manage to break into the plantation, in search of their favourite food, jackfruit.

But this is just one of the many new things that I learn about animals, trees, and the history of the land during the hour-long drive across the large misty coffee plantation. That’s the beauty of staying in Evolve Back, Coorg—you go back to living the life of the past, with cleaner air and greener forests, appreciating the simple joys of life. 

The Ramapuram family—who are primarily planters of coffee, rubber, pepper and cashew—decided to open a resort in Coorg in 1995, with only nine rooms. Earlier known as Orange County, owing its name to the luscious oranges that were once grown in the region, the brand name was changed to Evolve Back in 2017, after Orange County expanded to Kabini and Hampi. 

Tribute to the Kodava culture 

Today, the Coorg property features 49 rooms—a mix of heritage pool villas, lily pool villas, lily pool bungalow, lily pool cottages, and lily pool duplex. 

The villas, built in the Kodava style, are reminiscent of the local ainmanes or ancestral homes, featuring sloping red-roofed tiles and wooden beams. They are designed to provide utmost privacy to the guests, with courtyards with private pools and jacuzzis opening to the jungle or an expansive view of the paddy fields and the plantation. However, the privacy is only limited to human interference, as the monkeys can still make their way to the gardens and courtyards. 

The interiors of the villas are equally impressive with enormous care taken to consolidate luxury and heritage together. The use of natural materials, including wood and stone, coupled with earthy toned furnishing and hand-crafted artwork make the villas almost feel like a home away from home—warm and inviting. The environment outside is thoughtfully brought in with the small openings in the roof allowing the natural air, light and water (when it rains) to fall through the veiling and into the stones below. 

Flavours of Coorg

Similar to its architecture, the culinary experience at Evolve Back pays homage to the flavours of Coorg. The property features three restaurants—The Granary, a multicuisine restaurant with a view of the main pool, focusing on regional specialities and locally-sourced ingredients; Plantain Leaf, a fine-dining restaurant overlooking the coffee plantation, serving vegetarian North and South Indian thalis featuring the likes of parippu curry, akki roti, and chuttaracha sambar; and Peppercorn, a speciality restaurant overlooking the private lake and dishing up succulent kebabs, grills and steaks. 

One can also choose to indulge in Coorgi pork, mutton roast, or fresh pomfret fry in the comfort of your room, or by the poolside of one’s villa. 

The rooms also come loaded with local treats—mysore pak, coconut burfi, sesame burfi, cashews, Sidapur coffee and a French Press, for all the cravings in between meals. 

Embracing the local culture

Evolve Back has designed a plethora of activities for its guests, aimed at providing experiences that allow interactions with the ethnic communities. The in-house coffee tasting sessions, hosted every day in the coffee and culture museum, provide insights on coffee cultivation and the art of coffee brewing. 

One can also choose to go birdwatching, explore the adjacent villages on an electric cycle, or go for a plantation walk, all guided by the in-house naturalist. 

Guests can also choose to visit the Dubare (meaning expensive, owing to the rosewood, sandalwood and mahogany variants of trees grown in the forest) Elephant Camp, located 20 kilometres away, to interact with the tuskers in their natural habitat. The experience also allows guests to get up close and personal with elephants, and even indulge in feeding and bathing them. 

For those who choose to relax and unwind, the reading lounge overlooking the paddy field is the perfect escapade to enjoy a book with unlimited complimentary coffee. Alternatively, the in-house ayurveda spa focuses on ancient healing techniques with the perfect setting amidst the paddy fields and coffee plantation. 

In a time when everyone’s busy running the rat race, Evolve Back Coorg offers a time capsule where time slows down, and one goes back to live life in the slow lane, even if it’s just for the weekend. 

Best time to visit: While Coorg offers cool and misty weather all year round, the town is greenest during the monsoons. Although we do have to warn you about the constant loud buzzing calls of the cicadas. 

Cost per room: Rs 25,000 - Rs 45,000, including meals.