Gauri Khan's Torii is a celebration of Asian design and flavours

The Japanese word ‘torii’ translates into a symbolic gateway that marks the entrance to the sacred precincts of a Shintō shrine in Japan. 

Taking inspiration from this, Gauri Khan’s Torii—a restaurant located in Mumbai’s hip Bandra neighbourhood and launched with restaurateur Abhayraj Kohli, Managing Director of Pritam Group—is designed to be a doorway that opens up a world of Asian and Latin-American tastes and flavours. 

A dark green statement door framed in backlit black-and-white onyx welcomes me, and I catch sight of a large fish entwined with the restaurant’s name as I step in. The idea, according to Khan, was to incorporate a Japanese design element that’s instantly recognisable and also symbolic. 

“A koi fish symbolises luck, prosperity and good fortune in Japanese culture,” she says. 

The 85-seater diner is spread across 4,500 square feet and divided into three sections: a welcoming lounge near the elegant green island bar, a light al fresco dining space with large mirrors and lush greenery, and an indoor restaurant where distressed mirror ceilings and chic red tables take centre-stage. Brass accents rule in the comfy and relaxed outdoor section, the glam lounge, and old-style restaurant.

Khan’s aim—an interplay of textures—is visible throughout the design: in the rough wall that encompasses the outdoor dining space, the shiny mirrors that amp up the space quotient, the small polished brass lamps that light up every table, and the greenery that adds a fresh touch and helps create privacy between tables.

Stepping through an arched glass and metal door, I enter the core restaurant area. It’s ruled by red—be it the island bar, the accents in the commissioned artwork opposite it, or in the gleaming tabletops. The brightness of the colour is enhanced by the metallic accents and mirrored ceiling, and toned down by the houndstooth-patterned seating and biophilic elements. 

Across Asia, red is seen as an auspicious hue. Associated with life-generating energy, it is the colour of celebrations and prosperity. Khan says the use of one of her favourite colours is “a nod to Torii’s Asian roots.” Juxtaposed against the colour palette of green, black, white, and gold, it adds a dash of Hollywoodesque glamour and old-style allure. 

Torii’s menu is curated by Michelin-trained expat Chef Stefan Gadit who has drawn inspiration from his Canadian roots and years of work in top restaurants and hotels across the world. Gadit has trained under Michelin-starred mentors such as René Redzepi at Noma in Copenhagen, and Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park in NYC. He also has experience from his time at Delta by Marriott Toronto, Fairmont in Lake Louise, and the W hotel in Montreal. 

The menu blends international and Asian influences, offering a mix of classic and contemporary dishes that highlight seasonal ingredients and bold flavours. 

“We focus on local sourcing, seasonal ingredients, reducing food waste, and energy-efficient practices, collaborating with ethical suppliers to minimise our impact,” says Gadit.

His diverse culinary background has created a menu that blends tradition and innovation, and celebrates flavour and creativity. 

I take a closer look at the menu: maki rolls rub shoulders with signature cold carpaccios and tatakis, and salads and tempura offset choices from the charcoal grill and the dumplings. The offerings from the wok, signature dishes, and the rice and noodles put me in a quandary: a problem of plenty!

I end up ordering quite a bit: spicy salmon maki rolls, snapper ceviche, rock shrimp tempura with amazu ponzu and siracha mayo, and shrimp with truffle and butter garlic. 

Then the server tries to entice me to try one of the many cocktails the restaurant is known for, stating that they are crafted using modern mixology techniques such as clarification and distillation, and inspired by matcha, tom yum soup, and mango sticky rice. But I stick to the much-loved companion: a crisp rosé. 

The number of people trooping in continues to grow as the clock ticks. Torii is a favourite with celebrities, and many of them, including Madhuri Dixit, Hrithik Roshan, Vicky Kaushal, and Shilpa Shetty, can often be spotted here. The restaurant recently hosted a special event for The Fabulous Lives Vs Bollywood Wives. 

I spot a couple of models, but can’t be bothered to put names to their faces. It’s main course time, after all! The truffle chicken ramen, dotted with a soft egg, bamboo shoots, bok choy, and corn, appeals, more so with a dash of chicken chilly oil on the side.

The detail-oriented chef recommends the miso-marinated black cod—“a must-try, best paired with a chilled sake or one of our yuzu-based cocktails,” he says.

But his own favourite is something else: the salmon tataki with seaweed and chilli crisp—delicate fish paired with a punch of heat and umami.

That will have to be next time though. 

The music is blaring and the dance is picking up, but the clock is closing in on the witching hour. It’s time to call it a night—but not before a sweet treat to end the meal. 

I have heard only good things about the shibuya toast with honey ice cream, but I decide on the tres leches, redolent with the fragrance and flavour of lavender. It’s a befitting end to a meal that was a fusion of aromas and tastes, flavours and spices. 

Like the symbolic gateway it’s named for, Torii, Gauri Khan’s first restaurant, takes me into a world where opulent interior design and sophisticated spaces create an enticing backdrop for the most important offering of them all: food.